Tips From Tailoring Professionals on How to Freshen Up Your Suit After a Cigar

[El Presidente]

https://www.insidehook.com/article/menswear/freshen-your-suit-after-cigar

MENSWEAR | JANUARY 24, 2022 10:12 AM

Tips From Tailoring Professionals on How to Freshen Up Your Suit After a Cigar

Tailoring insiders share their best practices for kicking tobacco odors to the curb

 

A recent visit to Stanza Dei Sigari — a frozen-in-time cigar bar in Boston’s North End — brought back the forbidden pleasures of an indoor smoke. But upon reaching home, I discovered that those same fumes that felt so intoxicating in the leather-and-wood-filled den had infused my tweed jacket with eau de ashtray, which failed to dissipate the next morning.  

It’s a familiar conundrum for those who enjoy tailoring and the occasional smoke. Like a fireplace and a glass of scotch, each are old-world pleasures that seem a natural pairing. After all, let’s not forget that the modern tuxedo is descended from the short “smoking jackets” Victorian gentlemen donned to enjoy brandy and cigars after dinner. 

However, dealing with a day-after tobacco smell that can’t be cured by a washing machine cycle is enough to spoil the fun. And while a trip to the cleaners might get it out, you’re also risking chipped buttons, flattened lapels and the other myriad horrors of the modern drycleaner — if you get it back at all. 

So rather than doing the responsible thing and swearing off cigars altogether, I consulted a couple of cigar-enjoying friends in the tailoring industry to learn how they freshen up their duds following a smoke. Paolo Martorano, founder of the same-named bespoke tailoring business in NYC, began with perhaps the wisest course of action. “That’s easy. To begin with, don’t smoke indoors!” 

“But frankly, this is a problem experienced by many of my clients,” he continued. “My recommendation is to isolate the garment, removing it from the closet or wardrobe and keeping it somewhere where it can air out for at least 48 hours.”g services. 

“Brush the garment thoroughly upon returning home, and again before you put it back in the closet. I would avoid spraying the garment with any scent-masking chemicals, and definitely avoid sending it to the cleaners. In general, we tend to over dry-clean our garments. It’s often an unnecessary stress on the garment, especially in a case like this when the issue can be effectively addressed with a simple airing out and vigorous brushing.”

Channeling Smokey Bear, Martorano also reminds us to keep an eye out for ash and embers. “I’ve seen far too many instances when clients come to me with trousers that look like Swiss cheese,” he says. 

Significant others are often the least-appreciative of a baked-in tobacco smell, but this hasn’t been the case for Eighteenth Amendment Creative Director Angel Ramos. “When I started dating my wife more than 20 years ago, she was turned on by the blend of cigar smoke on me mixed with my fragrance, and for me I felt like the luckiest guy on earth.”

In lieu of finding such a partner, Ramos recommends two freshening solutions: simply airing out the garment, and then steaming it to remove the brunt, if not all, of the odor. “Honestly, a little leftover scent of Partagas Serie E No 2 blended with Ex Idolo Fragrance never hurt anyone!” he says. 

 

Gianluca Migliarotti, founder of the bespoke trouser brand Pommella-Napoli and its more casual offshoot PML (author’s note: in warmer weather, I have enjoyed many cigars in their chenille polo) similarly endorses the air-out method, but also reaches for an ocean-scented fabric freshener from the brand Millefiori Milano.

“I hang my clothes in the open air at least 12 hours, then spay a product I found some time ago in Milan, a deodorant [safe] for closets, therefore gentle on clothes,” he says. 

Worthy tips all, but there remains the question: why not just smoke in a pair of sweatpants and a baggy hoodie that will smell like Tide again after one wash cycle?

“What makes cigars valuable to me is the quality, compared to cigarettes for example,” says Migliarotti. “The higher the quality, the greater the pleasure. This is of course is a link to tailoring: the coherence with the same chase of high quality.”

Like all worthwhile vices, tobacco and tailoring present a high to chase. And at select times, theirs might even mingle. So, when the moment aligns, enjoy it: there will always be time for airing out later. 

[JohnS]

@Luca is the 'go-to' man here. He is definitely the one cool dude I'd ask for help with this problem, if the need arose!

[SigmundChurchill]

On 1/24/2022 at 5:54 PM, El Presidente said:

why not just smoke in a pair of sweatpants and a baggy hoodie that will smell like Tide again after one wash cycle?

 

This is me.

I like to be comfortable while I smoke.  I always wear a sweat pants and a hoodie.  

If it’s in the evening, I will dress a little less casual, but I usually smoke in the daytime.

A couple of weeks ago, I added the baseball cap to my regular cigar lounge attire.  That is the only thing I have to figure out how to remove the smell from, but I'm not there yet.  Everything else goes in the washer.   

[dominattorney]

I dont think pants are as big an issue as jackets. For one thing, steaming a pair of trousers will usually job out the tobacco scent, and I do it regularly anyway to decrease wrinkles. I dry clean trousers once a season and jackets every 3 seasons unless otherwise necessary. 

I usually just leave my jacket in the car en route to the lounge, opting for a cardigan instead which I hang in the closet. Smoke with my shirt and suit pants, no tie. 

[Chas.Alpha]

Mom; before one of her concerts in Prague.

“Charles, your clothing reeks of tobacco.”

Me: “Mom, you carry a heavy scent of Cartier”

We always agreed to disagree... 🙂

[Habana Mike]

Stanza can get smoky. Great place, one of the last left in Boston.

Air them out!

[Jack]

Having spent time with the theatre crowd (no, I'm not Hamlet material) the go-to for costumes is vodka in a spray bottle.  This is surprisingly effective on many odours, but I've not tried it on tobacco smoke, only stage effects.

"I am the very model of a modern major general!"

[benfica_77]

This guys next article.....how to get Stripper glitter/sparkles off your suit so the Mrs. doesn't get angry 😅

[Chas.Alpha]

43 minutes ago, benfica_77 said:

This guys next article.....how to get Stripper glitter/sparkles off your suit so the Mrs. doesn't get angry 😅

Or the butt shaped stain of baby oil off of khakis... 😳

[BrightonCorgi]

Airing out is a no-brainer.  Steaming works great to freshen & soften wrinkles, but not everyone has a garment steamer.  Ash holes are more worrisome to me.  I am slob with ash.

[La_Tigre]

Smoking Jacket.

They had it right back in the day. 

[BrightonCorgi]

3 hours ago, La_Tigre said:

Smoking Jacket.

They had it right back in the day. 

One should not wear a smoking jacket outside of the house.  Smoking jackets are offered to guests, not worn to the event.

[El Presidente]

It is an issue when you are longhaul travelling with a series of cigar events to attend 

Clothes are laundered no problem but good suits/overcoats need a lot more care.  

I try to restrict dry cleaning of my suits/overcoats to no more than once a year. Even the most gentle of operators will send your garment to an early grave. 

Air out for 2 days in the shade and  preferably where there is actual air movement. Lint roller and a soft brush.   Finish off with a steamer or hang it in the shower and run the hot water for 10 minutes. Hang out again for a few hours. Good to go. 

[Jack]

8 hours ago, therealrsr said:

lint roller, or so I've been told🤫

 

To remove the smell of smoke?

[El Presidente]

3 hours ago, Jack said:

To remove the smell of smoke?

You would be amazed how many small particles of ash a lint roller removes.  I use it before the soft brush in order that I don't just brush them into the fabric, particularly on coarser/deeper  overcoats.  On extended travel, it helps make the coats/suits not look/smell like you are chic homeless. 

[Fuzz]

7 hours ago, El Presidente said:

Finish off with a steamer or hang it in the shower and run the hot water for 10 minutes.

Do not follow this advice if you are drunk and fall asleep before turning off the shower. You may wake up with a fireman in full gear staring at you, and the whole of the hotel evacuated outside.

[El Presidente]

19 minutes ago, Fuzz said:

Do not follow this advice if you are drunk and fall asleep before turning off the shower. You may wake up with a fireman in full gear staring at you, and the whole of the hotel evacuated outside.

.......very sage advice 🙄

[Fuzz]

On 1/27/2022 at 1:33 AM, therealrsr said:

@Fuzz did you flood a hotel too?

Oh, no. I was not speaking about myself. I was relating a story I was heard, about someone we all know.

[Luca]

On 1/25/2022 at 10:07 AM, JohnS said:

@Luca is the 'go-to' man here. He is definitely the one cool dude I'd ask for help with this problem, if the need arose!

Haha thanks John. Good advice in this thread. Definitely airing out is the best way to remove cigar odours from your suit. I smoke frequently whilst wearing a suit. At home I use a smoking jacket.

A big factor is also the material of your suit. A 100% wool suit will not hold odour like a polyester suit. Wool is an amazing fabric with great properties (hard wearing, breathable but warm etc) and one of those is that it doesn't hold odours.

So airing out, steaming (occasionally), and brushing (I don't recommend using a lint roller) your suits is a great way to help keep them odour free. 

[Fuzz]

42 minutes ago, Luca said:

Haha thanks John. Good advice in this thread. Definitely airing out is the best way to remove cigar odours from your suit. I smoke frequently whilst wearing a suit. At home I use a smoking jacket.

A big factor is also the material of your suit. A 100% wool suit will not hold odour like a polyester suit. Wool is an amazing fabric with great properties (hard wearing, breathable but warm etc) and one of those is that it doesn't hold odours.

So airing out, steaming (occasionally), and brushing (I don't recommend using a lint roller) your suits is a great way to help keep them odour free. 

Liar. You just buy a new suit!

[inter4alia]

2 hours ago, therealrsr said:

Why do you not recommend the lint roller?  Not challenging, I mean JohnS cited you as the "go-to" so looking to learn.

I will let Luca provide his thoughts, but from my perspective lint rollers can be tough on suit fibers depending on what material your suit is made of. Brush is a more gentle option. This is just a general comment based on my experience, not specific to removing smoke odors. 

[Luca]

12 hours ago, therealrsr said:

Why do you not recommend the lint roller?  Not challenging, I mean JohnS cited you as the "go-to" so looking to learn.

The adhesive/glue from the lint roller can also stick to your suit which isn't good. Why? Whilst the lint roller will remove ash and dirt etc an adhesive residue is left behind. This residue will actually attract more dust and dirt etc. Over a long period using a lint roller you will also build up that adhesive residue on your garment.

As a long term garment care solution - I do not recommend lint rollers. Nowadays I don't even use them as a short term cleaning option.

A natural fibre garment brush is best. As @inter4alia mentions in his above post - a (natural fibre) brush is gentle on your suit. The brush will also help effectively penetrate the fabric of your suit to get any ash or dirt out.

 

10 hours ago, inter4alia said:

I will let Luca provide his thoughts, but from my perspective lint rollers can be tough on suit fibers depending on what material your suit is made of. Brush is a more gentle option. This is just a general comment based on my experience, not specific to removing smoke odors. 

Yes good point. More so on a wool suit in my opinion. 

[patrickamory]

First, I went to Stanza dei Sigari over the Christmas break and can state that it is one of the coolest spots I've visited in the past 10 years, cigars or no.

Second, tobacco odors in clothing are not that bad. If people complain, it's time to change the people, not the clothing.

[Luca]

4 hours ago, patrickamory said:

First, I went to Stanza dei Sigari over the Christmas break and can state that it is one of the coolest spots I've visited in the past 10 years, cigars or no.

Second, tobacco odors in clothing are not that bad. If people complain, it's time to change the people, not the clothing.

Just looked it up. It looks like a great place! I wonder what air purification system they use...