Havana Update


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I have been in Havana for 4 days and head for a plane shortly. Waaaaaaay too short but the focus of the trip was to attend Jose's wedding but I have childrens graduations, brothers birthdays and plenty of work I have to catch up on back home.

I love Havana. The place is my second home and albeit much of that home is a ruin no one could ever say it lacked character :)

The Nacional Hotel is a case in point. One of the great courtyards in the world which I love spending time in. The rest of the hotel however makes "Faulty Towers" look like the Waldorf.

You know, dial 138 at the Nacional and you get 24 hr room service. The last time actually anyone got through to room service was 1976 but the phone still rings away for 3 minutes before you give up. It takes real balls to ring anyone at the Nacional actually requesting food given they have spent decades refining a reputation for the worst hotel food in the world. Still there are those times at 4am after a night at the Gato Tueto where a Cheese Burger sounds perfect. In retrospect maybe the Hotel Room Service Staff are simply showing compassion and not malice. "Senor.....we don't answer the 138 phone....and nobody gets hurt"

On the issue of food there is very little. The black markets have little, the government stores bugger all. While no one is starving eyebrows are certainly being raised and many say this is the worst food situation since the Russian collapse of the 90's. Effectively the government is broke (nothing new) but credit has evaporated (credit being the governmenst sole financial strategy). Governments and institutions want real money for payment and past debts payed back before new provisions will be sent....God forbid.

Tourism is down albeit the last month (commencement of the tourist season) has seen a strong start but tourists are spending less. Never ever ever believe the Cuban Government mantra of ever growing Cuban tourist numbers. The reality is the opposite but the numbers look good as the Govt numbers now include all visitors in transit. Jose Marti airport is becoming a little regional airport hub due to its direct flights to London, Madris, Paris.

The cigar situation is as discussed before. Half production in the factories. HSA Warehouse full (as are distributors). Rollers who have a job are on restricted wages. I know some excellent rollers who can no longer afford to work at the Factories given cutbacks of cigars rolled (and hence money). They now work at the markets.

The upside is that the quality appears to be improving. I managed to have a peek at the new Behike Boxes. If you could smoke boxes you would be thrilled :D I haven't smoked one but speaking with the factory tasters who have, the new Medio Tiempo leaf (not really new but not used since before revolution) adds real strength and body. The cigars are ridiculously rich as is the target price. Had the normal arguments about what the world needs now is another expensive cigar...got nowhere.

Havana changes every six months in terms of feel, pulse. The feeling I got this time is that it is a city barely holding on. The tourist season starting now will provide much needed foreign income but come second quarter next year could prove very challenging, particularly if credit remains tight globally. One suspects the right olive branches from either side of the Cuba/US divide would be welcomed by the Cuban public.

The Cuban night clubs were packed and trade brisk. Elvis (barman at my favourite club, "The Gato Tuerto") is sporting my ORIS Carlos Coste. Apparently at 4am I agreed to a trade of my watch for free drinks at the Tuerto for life. Woke up later that morning and raised my wrist to look at the time....you ever know that feeling ....."you fool what have you done!" ;)

Was back at the Tueto two nights later and treated like a watchless king. Don Alejandro Robaina told me years back that the secret to his long life was never wearing a watch. He's kidding himself.

I will be back in Havana in 12 weeks time. Looking forward to it already ;)

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Yes Colt.....that's the one :)

Good news is that I recovered 25% of its worth in just two nights. Bad news is that I recovered 25% of its worth in two nights.

Wait until Ken, Des, Greg, join me in february at the Tueto! It could be one of the great deals of all time!

Then again ....I am bracing myself for the speach I am going to get from Lise ;)

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Rob, nice to hear that you're enjoying yourself at "El Gato Tuerto " which is just behind

the Nacional for those who don't know. It's one of those places that you really feel good in,

A bit cramped in between the bar and the tables but great entertainment if you like those

years of Pat Boone, Ricky Nelson and Dinah shore. The manager is a great guy, I forgot his name,

but once he takes you under his wings, you're good until early morning and beyond. :)

Anyway, the Nacional swimming pool is not that far away if you need to fresh up a bit ;)

Have a safe trip. ;)

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Don Alejandro Robaina told me years back that the secret to his long life was never wearing a watch. He's kidding himself. ;)

...or are you kidding yourself?

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...Havana changes every six months in terms of feel, pulse. The feeling I got this time is that it is a city barely holding on. The tourist season starting now will provide much needed foreign income but come second quarter next year could prove very challenging, particularly if credit remains tight globally. One suspects the right olive branches from either side of the Cuba/US divide would be welcomed by the Cuban public.

Does the Cuban public hold any sway?

Great report as always. Color reporting at its finest.

Wilkey

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Elvis (barman at my favourite club, "The Gato Tuerto") is sporting my ORIS Carlos Coste. Apparently at 4am I agreed to a trade of my watch for free drinks at the Tuerto for life. Woke up later that morning and raised my wrist to look at the time....you ever know that feeling ....."you fool what have you done!" :)

Some people may have thought that I would be angry with you for giving your watch away, (hell I get enough inquiries for that watch each week that I could have sold it several times over and with the profits sent your children to university), but no I understand where you are coming from.

All I ask is that I be there with a video camera when you explain to your eldest son that you gave away his 18th birthday present for a glass of rum, just to see the look on his face as he realises that his father is not the hero he thought he was. Priceless!!

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Then again ....I am bracing myself for the speach I am going to get from Lise :)

It is going to be a beauty...... honestly man what am I going to do with you :rotfl:

See you in the morning

Lise, please video the "conversation" you'll have with Rob and get Smithy to post it. :lol:

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Sounds like you had an awesome trip I can only imagine if in my dreams. I haven't left my county since I broke my back in 03. Thanks for lifting my spirits on another world out there.

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While it is a pricey limited edition watch...free drinks for life seems like a damn good deal to me given how often you frequent Havana...and of course the fact that you drink like a fish. Now you just have to hope tha Elvis doesn't leave the building...

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I was in Cuba in June too... some years ago... 2003... and I'm still waiting for the arrival of the postcards... you lucky b*st$ard ! :wink2:

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