Who invented the Flat White?

[JohnS]

If you've never heard of a flat white, it's a highly popular coffee beverage in Australia (and New Zealand) consisting of espresso coffee and steamed milk. But who exactly invented it?

Who invented the flat white? Italian sugar farmers from regional Queensland likely played a big role

The Conversation by Garritt C. Van Dyk

Posted Wed 3 Apr 2024 

Italian sugar cane cutters from Innisfail, Queensland, taking a break in 1923.(Wikimedia/State Library of Queensland)

Australia's coffee culture — a source of great national pride — is usually associated with the wave of Greek and Italian migrants who settled in Melbourne and Sydney following World War II. But it was very likely in regional Queensland that one of Australia's favourite brews first took root.

This is the story of how Italian sugar growers in the Sunshine State are said to have inspired the "invention" of the flat white — a drink that would go on to become a global sensation.

Tracing this history shows a different side to how European tastes were imported to Australia beyond the capital cities. It also reminds us big trends can come from small towns, and that multicultural influence can be easily taken for granted in something as basic as your daily cup of coffee.

The Little Italy of Northern Queensland

Popular conceptions of Italian migrants in Australia are often focused on the wave of migration to the capital cities in the 1950s, overlooking the many migrants who were already settled in regional areas.

In 1891, immigration agent and businessman Chiaffredo Venerano Fraire organised a scheme to recruit cane cutters on behalf of the Queensland government. More than 300 Italians came to the region as a result, prompting chain migration and concerns about their ability to assimilate.

North Queensland became an even more popular destination in the 1920s, after the United States introduced quotas for Italian migrants. By 1925, Italians owned 44 per cent of the sugar farm in the Herbert River area.

The Macknade sugar plantation viewed from the Herbert River, Ingham, in 1874, with men from the plantation in the rowboat.(Wikimedia/State Library of Queensland)

These Italian communities expanded further after WWII, as did their cultural influence. The Australian Italian festival, established in 1995 by the Italian community in Ingham and Hinchinbrook shire, celebrates and preserves the legacy of Italian culture in the district.

What's in a name?

There are many claims regarding the origin of the flat white, from England to New Zealand. But the best case for coining the term comes from Sydney cafe owner Alan Preston, who details his reasoning extensively online. While the origin debate rages on, Preston's argument has the most solid historical evidence to back it.

The exact phrase "flat white" appeared on the coffee menu in Preston's cafe, Moors Espresso Bar, in 1985 in Sydney's Chinatown area. Preston claims he was the first to use the term on a menu, and has documented this use through photographs.

He says he brought this style of espresso-based drink to Sydney from Far North Queensland, where he's originally from. The drink was supposedly popular in cafes in sugar-producing towns as it catered to the tastes of wealthy Italian growers and their families.

According to Preston, these cafes had the best espresso machines available at the time, imported from Italy. There would be five coffee options on offer. The black options were the short black and long black, and the white options were the cappuccino, Vienna and the "flat". On his own menu, Preston changed the last one to "flat white" as a more efficient moniker.

After Moors Espresso Bar, Preston opened five more cafes with flat whites on the menu, popularising the name and style. In 2015, global coffee giant Starbucks added the flat white to its menu — a testament to its universality. Google is a fan too, and made the flat white its doodle of the day on March 11 2024.

Why is the flat white so popular?

The flat white's widespread appeal comes down to its balance of textured (steamed) milk and espresso. The sign of a quality espresso is in its "crema", the caramel-coloured emulsion of hot water and coffee bean oils.

The crema is the thin golden emulsion that sits atop a quality espresso shot.(Unsplash: Matt Brett)

A flat white blends the natural crema of an espresso shot with a thin layer of microfoam at the cup's surface. Without the thicker foam of a latte or cappuccino, or the distraction of chocolate sprinkled on top, the flat white delivers a stronger coffee flavour with a unified creamy texture.

Preston says a properly prepared flat white should leave "tide marks" on the sides of the cup, showing the level go down with each sip.

Regional varieties

Perth's unique "long mac topped up" and the enigmatic Melbourne "magic" are two more examples of how regional influences have given rise to different coffee preferences across Australia.

The West Coast's long mac topped up has a milk-to-coffee ratio of 1:4 in a 180ml serving. It's like a strong flat white where the coffee is no longer just "stained" by the milk (but somehow "double-shot flat white in a smaller cup" doesn't roll off the tongue).

Similarly, the Melbourne magic is made with a double ristretto (a shorter, more robust espresso shot) and textured milk, and served in a 148ml (5 oz) cup. So it's an even stronger flat white, in a smaller cup. The name "magic" may not reveal anything about the contents, but the proof is in the drinking.

The flat white is enjoyed all over the world today.(Unsplash: Carli Jeen)

Déjà brew

The presence of coffee in Australia is as old as the First Fleet, wherein plants imported from Rio de Janeiro were grown on Norfolk Island in 1788. Reflecting on its long and nuanced history reminds us of the contributions multiculturalism has made to the nation, and why new iterations of old things ought to be welcomed.

The story of the flat white, along with its regional variations, reflects a dynamic coffee culture that continues to evolve to cater to new tastes. For now, we can thank the Italian migrants of sugar country.

Source: https://www.abc.net.au/news/2024-04-03/who-invented-the-flat-white-queensland/103659040

[westg]

When I buy coffee, and I get the soy, vanilla latte, oatmilk blah blah etc etc, I order six flat whites and I take a handful of sugar sachets and black coffee for me.  All too easy. Never a complaint 

☕️ John 

[JohnS]

Haha...I take my coffee without milk too! 😂

[Fuzz]

2 hours ago, JohnS said:

Haha...I take my coffee without milk too! 😂

 

 

[westg]

5 hours ago, Fuzz said:

 

 

Sick puppy 🐶 

[Cigar Surgeon]

It was certainly my understanding this was an Australian invention. I usually drink my coffee black but a flat white is an occasional indulgence. 

First experienced them in Scotland. 

[99call]

I love the fact that in 2024 whatever you ask for...99% of baristas will just make you a Latte, aka brown milk.

Drives me nuts!

[Drguano]

 

10 hours ago, westg said:

Sick puppy 🐶 

[Wookie]

I wonder what percentage of FOHers pay $5-7 per day for a cup of coffee? I make Starbucks in my house every morning. I can't stomach the barista prices. Maybe I'm too cheap.

[Ken Gargett]

5 hours ago, Cigar Surgeon said:

It was certainly my understanding this was an Australian invention. I usually drink my coffee black but a flat white is an occasional indulgence. 

First experienced them in Scotland. 

absolutely. mind you, you can't meet a kiwi who won't claim it. just add it to the long list they claim. everything but Russell Crowe and he really is theirs. 

[BlueRidgeFly]

In 2002 I spent three weeks in Sydney on a work assignment. Before going, a colleague from there was griping that he couldn’t get a strong enough coffee from Starbucks in the US. I thought he was nuts…

I arrived in Sydney, went to a cafe, ordered a long black (?). They break out the Lavazza, make a couple shots of espresso, dump it in a cup… and call it coffee!

I freaking loved it there 😀

[PuroDiario]

https://methodicalcoffee.com/blogs/coffee-culture/macchiato-vs-cortado-vs-flat-white-whats-the-difference

[Drguano]

On 4/6/2024 at 4:58 PM, Ken Gargett said:

absolutely. mind you, you can't meet a kiwi who won't claim it. just add it to the long list they claim. everything but Russell Crowe and he really is theirs. 

They claim to have invented the flightless aeroplane…