cigars and drinks - from a top sommelier

[Ken Gargett]

There has been heaps written here and elsewhere on matching drinks with cigars. I say 'drinks' as some of us feel that purely wine and cigars is often a second rate match.

Personally, I struggle with red wines and cigars, notwithstanding the very many times I have given them a chance. Rum, some malt whiskies, an occasional cognac, very often champagne, some whites – all work better than reds. Others disagree.

So, when on a recent trip to Spain, and I had a chance to go to the famous Mugaritz (in San Sebastian) for dinner (don't miss it – truly mindbogglingly good. Most critics seem to have it in their top two or three in the world, although the Michelin people have it only as a two-star, suggesting that they are way out of touch), I had a chat with the sommelier, Nicolas Boise.

Nicolas is a young Frenchman, though you'd never know from the accent (Burgundian, actually). He has worked in the Fat Duck, and for me, is probably the best sommelier I’ve ever encountered. He was superb. Knew his stuff thoroughly and, unlike so many that one comes across especially here, no airs and graces or poncy superiority (no screenplays in the bottom drawer?). Just a bloke who loves doing what he does and who is extremely good at it. And he really is prepared to think outside the box. Some matches are things like a spicy beer, a particular sake or even just water.

His first suggestion, and obviously all this is dictated by exactly which cigar one is smoking, was rum. So we were immediately on the same track. I had intended to return to rum and discuss it in more depth but we got sidetracked on so many other topics.

His view is that a refreshing drink is usually the better match. He considers that many cocktails work extremely well but again, which cigar and which cocktail could probably earn someone a Ph.D.

His next suggestion was tea (I should add that they have a fantastic selection of teas and the white tea (No 20, Fujian Jasmine) I had was absolutely spectacular – the best tea I have ever enjoyed. Sadly, indoors in Spain, no chance for a cigar to test the theory). That said, Nicolas recommends black teas and also red teas, because of the pure earthiness. But he suggested avoiding lapsang souchong – we were off again before I could establish quite why.

And then, without any prompting from me, he suggested that champagne was a great match. I knew I thought he was good! He mentioned that the fizz he particularly liked with cigars was from Jacques Selosse. Must say, I like Selosse at any time – for those not familiar, it is a much richer, more complex style than many. It was a suggestion that made perfect sense.

He also mentioned PX sherries, and also lovely old sweet oloroso's. I guess one could take that further to include ports/muscats/tokays/fortifieds in general, but we didn't discuss that.

I asked Nicolas about reds. His response was that they didn't even come to mind. And that from a Burgundian! He did say that the structure of pinot noir made it by far the most appropriate red, if one wanted to go that way.

Finally, we discussed whiskies. He felt that the strength and powerful flavours of the peaty Islay malts were too much. He dismissed Arbeg and Laphroaig for those reasons. He was very much in favour of Auchentoshan, a triple distilled malt from Glasgow. I might say he also put me on to one of the most bizarre finds I’ve ever encountered – a whisky producer from just outside Beaune in Burgundy (and an exceptional one at that).

But that is another story.

KBG

[ChanceSchmerr]

Interesting read, Ken - I enjoyed reading of your discoveries with him!

I won't pretend to know much of wine (though my port knowledge is vastly improved, thanks to your friend Joana!) but I can speak a little of Malt Whisky with cigars.

I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the Peaty/Smoky Islays from pairing with cigars. It's true that the outward Strength and Iodine-y sharpness of a young Laphroaig is probably enough to overpower all but the strongest cigars, but the balanced and somewhat more mellow Laphroaig 18 is an excellent match for many Medium to Full cigars. I find it a great pair with a Punch or SLR cigar. It really comes down to judicious choice, I mean if you're drinking Ardbeg Supernova or Bruichladdich Octomore, you're doing it because you want to blown away with Phenols....Cigars shouldn't really come to mind along with it! But if you're enjoying say the Ardbeg Uigeadal, the sherry casks have have take off a bunch of the sharpness that makes the Ardbeg 10 such a star (without lessening the marvelous complexity), and you can definitely enjoy a cigar without either suffering - that's exactly how I kicked off 2011 on New Year's Eve, with a dram of the Ugie and a Punch Petit Punch - they were spectacular!

Lastly - probably one of my finest cigar experiences I've ever had (and I've posted about it somewhere on here) was a RA 898 that I paired with a mellow Single Malt...can't remember which. The 898 was not a powerhouse, but extradinarily flavourful and rich, and the whisky added nothing. When I turned to Lagavulin 16 (another Smokey/Peaty treasure).....the resulting pairing was astonishing brillant, beyond words.

Whisky can't be able closing your mind to certain styles - try different things, see what you like! There is such a cornucopia of styles and expressions out there, you're missing out if you wallow in simple Glenfiddich 12 doldrums. Step out and open your eyes! There are fantastic Bourbon's out there (George T. Stagg, Buffalo Trace), Complex Canadians (Alberta Premium, Century Reserve 21), Shockingly good Irish (Green Spot, Redbreast)....it's not just about Single Malts either! Islay is my favorite, but i'm in no way limited to it!

Don't dismiss all peaty Islay Whiskies when you think of Cigar pairings - just think about what you're pairing up. I wouldn't put a Hoyo Des Dieux together with a Caol Ila....but i'd have no doubt trying a Party D4 with a Port Charlote 6 or 7.

Above all else - smoke and drink what you truly enjoy! Just don't close your eyes to something without trying it first. You'll be surprised what you may find.

Ok....off my soapbox. 5 more days till the next port stop.....

[Colt45]

Thanks for the write up, KG - interesting as sometimes always.

[ckearns]

Great read Ken. Thanks for taking the time to put it together and I guess it goes to show there's no right or wrong answer to the pairing question. I believe most people select a cigar based on their mood and I think people should pick an accompanying beverage based on their mood as well.

On a side note, I agree with your assessment of Mugaritz and I'm glad you had an exceptional experience. I had the pleasure of dining there last year and thoroughly enjoyed it. In fact, my FOH member picture is of the PSD Especial and Ardbeg 10 I enjoyed on the patio of Mugaritz after our dinner . Were you staying in San Sebastian and/or did you eat at any other great places?

[Michel1968]

I like that man. Thanks for sharing!

Oh, when you encounter Michel Couvreur, have a good time. he's one special guy and quite a character. His cellar is spectaculair!!

[Ken Gargett]

I like that man. Thanks for sharing!

Oh, when you encounter Michel Couvreur, have a good time. he's one special guy and quite a character. His cellar is spectaculair!!

that is the guy. spent a couple of hours there. fascinating and terrific whiskies. he was showing us his old accounts book. i think i mentioned somewhere that back in the 70's, he had a good client whose address was the newsagency at cooktown. pretty much as far away and as isolated as possible. back then, there would have been a few hippies, a few croc shooters and some local fishermen and bugger all else. not sure it is too much different today.

[Ken Gargett]

Interesting read, Ken - I enjoyed reading of your discoveries with him!

I won't pretend to know much of wine (though my port knowledge is vastly improved, thanks to your friend Joana!) but I can speak a little of Malt Whisky with cigars.

I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the Peaty/Smoky Islays from pairing with cigars. It's true that the outward Strength and Iodine-y sharpness of a young Laphroaig is probably enough to overpower all but the strongest cigars, but the balanced and somewhat more mellow Laphroaig 18 is an excellent match for many Medium to Full cigars. I find it a great pair with a Punch or SLR cigar. It really comes down to judicious choice, I mean if you're drinking Ardbeg Supernova or Bruichladdich Octomore, you're doing it because you want to blown away with Phenols....Cigars shouldn't really come to mind along with it! But if you're enjoying say the Ardbeg Uigeadal, the sherry casks have have take off a bunch of the sharpness that makes the Ardbeg 10 such a star (without lessening the marvelous complexity), and you can definitely enjoy a cigar without either suffering - that's exactly how I kicked off 2011 on New Year's Eve, with a dram of the Ugie and a Punch Petit Punch - they were spectacular!

Lastly - probably one of my finest cigar experiences I've ever had (and I've posted about it somewhere on here) was a RA 898 that I paired with a mellow Single Malt...can't remember which. The 898 was not a powerhouse, but extradinarily flavourful and rich, and the whisky added nothing. When I turned to Lagavulin 16 (another Smokey/Peaty treasure).....the resulting pairing was astonishing brillant, beyond words.

Whisky can't be able closing your mind to certain styles - try different things, see what you like! There is such a cornucopia of styles and expressions out there, you're missing out if you wallow in simple Glenfiddich 12 doldrums. Step out and open your eyes! There are fantastic Bourbon's out there (George T. Stagg, Buffalo Trace), Complex Canadians (Alberta Premium, Century Reserve 21), Shockingly good Irish (Green Spot, Redbreast)....it's not just about Single Malts either! Islay is my favorite, but i'm in no way limited to it!

Don't dismiss all peaty Islay Whiskies when you think of Cigar pairings - just think about what you're pairing up. I wouldn't put a Hoyo Des Dieux together with a Caol Ila....but i'd have no doubt trying a Party D4 with a Port Charlote 6 or 7.

Above all else - smoke and drink what you truly enjoy! Just don't close your eyes to something without trying it first. You'll be surprised what you may find.

Ok....off my soapbox. 5 more days till the next port stop.....

personally, the islay malts are my fave also. in fact, i really don't drink much else, unless specifically for tasting.

i understand what he was saying but if i do go with a malt, it is almost always islay or thereabouts. simply because i enjoy them more than others and would rather do that than search for some possible, possibly mythical match. i know i'll get more pleasure going that way.

and i must confess that i have matched a dieux with a caol ila. not sure i would a second time.

[Ken Gargett]

Great read Ken. Thanks for taking the time to put it together and I guess it goes to show there's no right or wrong answer to the pairing question. I believe most people select a cigar based on their mood and I think people should pick an accompanying beverage based on their mood as well.

On a side note, I agree with your assessment of Mugaritz and I'm glad you had an exceptional experience. I had the pleasure of dining there last year and thoroughly enjoyed it. In fact, my FOH member picture is of the PSD Especial and Ardbeg 10 I enjoyed on the patio of Mugaritz after our dinner . Were you staying in San Sebastian and/or did you eat at any other great places?

mugaritz was exceptional. as dinner didn't finish till about 2am, it was a smidge late to go for a cigar - others ready to head back.

the other star visit in san seb was akalerre. three star in a spectacular lolcation. somm married to an aussie so he has a few aussie wines on the list. really first class food. was a touch embarassing as went after the cup semi where we got knocked out. watched the game in a local irish bar with a mix of supporters and afterwards, one of the spanish guys i was travelling with and i went and had a beer and a cigar on the boardwalk. then told we had to rush to lunch (had a mid arvo flight from biarritz to paris. i'm in my wallaby jersey and stinking of hoyo des dieux smoke. i thought we were simply going to a quick bite. end up at this place. wow!

will try and load a photo of me and the chef etc.

[NJP]

You touched on Sherry and I agree as we get hotter in Victoria it's a nice mix with Cc's. Especially Spanish Sherry.

[Wil]

Great post Ken. Did Nicolas express a preference for a particular cigar?

[Rogers72]

Great read and thanks for sharing, Ken! I mostly agree re the red wine pairing. I don't think it brings out the best in the cigar or the wine but I typically enjoy what they become together. I am also a huge fan of most Champagnes. Most of my experience is with the fizz that is most commonly found in bulk here in the states and mostly NV's at that. I haven't had a bad pairing but, as I have stated before, LOVE Ruinart Rose with just about any Bolivar/Upmann/Cohiba/Partagas (the majority of my smoking). Never had a bad rum pairing but don't do it often enough for unknown reasons. However, my favorite pairing of all is with a good Islay Whisky. Caol Ila and Lagavulin are tops for me. Talisker and Oban also work great for me. Like others on the board, I really enjoy Gin as well. Usually Gin and soda on ice in the warm months and a martini in the cooler months. It is one of those refreshing/cleansing pairings.

[Ken Gargett]

Great post Ken. Did Nicolas express a preference for a particular cigar?

no, he smokes a range, was my understanding.

[shrink]

I enjoyed one of my favorite pairings tonight...

An '08 Hoyo des Dieux and Root Beer. That's right, Root Beer. The sweet woodiness of the cigar and the spicy beverage were perfect together.

[frenchkiwi]

... need i reply?

good story, thanks for sharing.

Quel connaisseur, ce Nicolas.

i had a big syrupy sweet quasi-fortified (15%) south australian shiraz the other night (Lavina estate). That was almost worthy of cigar, but not quite, and only because it was a virtual port. Ah ces Australiens.

i'll often pick up a sherry if the cigar is particularly tannic or dry on the finish... always a dulce, be it PX or moscatel.

[orangedog]

Great post and a fun thread. A few others I'd throw out there:

-Single Malts: try the speysides, especially the Balvenie 17yo releases like the New Oak and Rum Cask, also Glenfiddich 21

-White Wines: I wouldn't leave off Rieslings, especially Germans for the sweetness on the palate

-Red Wines: I've had luck with Amarone if the cigar is stronger. Generally age on these is better.

-Desert Wines: Madeira is also a great pairing option.

-Whiskey: While I haven't spent as much time as I'd like with them, many of the Japanese whiskies seem to show promise in pairings

I do think one needs to be careful when pairing with Islay scotch, though. When you get up there in the years the pairing options increase, such as with Laphroaig 30, but especially on the younger or high-phenol options, it really just starts to drown out your palate with smoke and peat on top of smoke. I had a 2001 HdM churchill paired with Laga 16... the salty, woodiness of the HdM paired with the Laga made it taste like chewing on ocean-saturated beach wood. No bueno. Interestingly, as I'm sure you'd expect, the taste was entirely different with a Particulares from 2001 - a much more delicate smoke - but still better with something not from Islay, imo.

Another topic: Beer.

As gimmicky as it sounds, I just paired a Rogue Maple Bacon Doughnut Ale with a PSP2 and it was very enjoyable. Was it excellent? No - but I'm glad I tried it, and I have three more bottles that I'll pair with cigars.

[ktm400]

I enjoyed one of my favorite pairings tonight...

An '08 Hoyo des Dieux and Root Beer. That's right, Root Beer. The sweet woodiness of the cigar and the spicy beverage were perfect together.

Nice .... I have had the same experience. I usually drink beer (because that is what I do) - but my favorite Cigar Lounge does not allow any booze. So I bring a Root Beer.... I enjoy it a lot.

[Guest]

Hi Ken,

Great post...thanks for the ideas! I'm new to FOH and am having fun checking out all the interesting information and suggestions!

For what it's worth my two fave pairing are Havana Club 7 year and a local Port called "Devils Spit" produced by a local winery nearby.

I am going to be in Varadero next week and very much looking forward to trying some new cigars.... any suggestions with respect to a "must Smoke" while I am there would be very much appreciated!!

Cheers,

Steve

[Ken Gargett]

devil's spit? great name tho not sure i'd rush it.

love the cohiba 1966's. definitely try one of those.

otherwise, i'd be trying as many different cigars as i could, especially ones i was not familiar with. make sure you get them from the habanos store, especially at veradero.

and just a further thought, i'd be spending more time in havana itself than veradero, if given the option.

[Guest]

devil's spit? great name tho not sure i'd rush it.

love the cohiba 1966's. definitely try one of those.

otherwise, i'd be trying as many different cigars as i could, especially ones i was not familiar with. make sure you get them from the habanos store, especially at veradero.

and just a further thought, i'd be spending more time in havana itself than veradero, if given the option.

Hi Ken... Thanks for the advise. Yes I saw the review on the 1966 and it is on the list for sure. This will be our first trips to Veradero (Holguin..last trip) and we are going to take a day trip to Havana. I am looking forward to it and was hoping to stay a day or two in Havana but my wife and I are traveling with our two kids, (18 and 21) and I am sure they want to spend more time on the beach and I don't blame them. We have friends that own a house in Playa el Moriillo West of Havana so our trips in the future will be by ourselves and/or with friends allowing us to spend more time in Havana.

Again thanks for the advice...Cheers!

[NMJoe]

Ken,

Thank you for starting this post. This is a great read and I look forward to trying many of these suggestions!

Joe

[ckgdrums]

Great post. Good information, especially to someone just starting out in cigars, and pairing with drinks. I am brand new to CC's and relatively new to NC's as well (started in Mar.2010). So, the beverage paring is new to me. I have had Glenlivet 12, Balvenie 12 Double

wood, I try to stay away from the peaty single malts as they taste like iodine to me.

The next step for me is to try some rum with one of my favorite NC, and then a CC.

UPDATE:

So I'm sitting at home with a glass of Kraken spiced rum and a Partagas D no.4... Seems like a nice pairing so far.

[rcarlson]

Glad the topic has started and hopefully will be developed.

I've got a '03 cab of des dieuxs and found that coffee does the best. I think the bitter set against the natural sweetness and subtle florals enhances.

I was told recently that a piece of semi-sweet or unsweet dark chocolate helps open up the palate.

I do think heavy whiskeys and peaty scotches tend to overpower and drowned out the flavor of most CCs (all but the strongest).

So, has anyone played around with coffees and landed on combinations that work?

[Michel1968]

I'm really starting to miss 'tea' in this thread. Am I the only one thinking a good Oolong or Pu ehr provides for wonderful pairings?

[mk05]

What a nice read Ken, thanks. More stories please.

I'm really starting to miss 'tea' in this thread. Am I the only one thinking a good Oolong or Pu ehr provides for wonderful pairings?

We've been having these "farmer's markets" here in the financial district on tuesdays and fridays, and a couple weekend ago I mosied on down for a look. I walked to an organic herbs and flowers table and ended up talking to this old lady who (mostly grew) and blended all her organic teas. I bought 4 ziplocks, kept two at work for the office and two in my locker at the local.

One of the mixes is an english black tea base, with some rose, lilac, wild corn husks, a little bit of ginger (and there's some blue thing going on in there that I can't figure out) - smells glorious, and tastes very creamy and floral. It's absolutely EPIC with rustic cigars like QdM corona, fonsecas, and ERDM CC's.

[brazoseagle]

Great Read, again and again