Recommend a Rolex GMT-style watch

[NSXCIGAR]

1 hour ago, rhcolbert said:

I'll have to do more research.  Lots of eta based movements claim to be GMT, but only add a 24 hour hand that can move in hour increments. I guess they show gmt, but the function added is useless.

iwc, omega and older panerai gmt used eta movement and modified in house to make em "true gmt." 

Very possible, as I am not very knowledgeable in the area. Would not surprise me if they have a "poor man's" GMT rather than the genuine movement offered by the big boys, of which Tag isn't in that club.

[LordAnubis]

I've had good experiences using watchrecon dot com and the subsequent watchuseek forum. You can search a members username and see their feedback. People leave threads about dealings with members via private sales.

I don't find anything wrong with homages. I bought one that is a seiko case and movement, with a black bay red dial and hands and bezel. Its no real thing but its within my means and that's all i can reach for. I like quite a few of the homages too. The seiko Fifty Five Fathoms one is neat i think! When i get back home in a few months i'll post up some pics.

 

[El Hoze]

4 hours ago, SaintMickey® said:

And then there is El Hoze..with his one watch worth more than my entire collection! 

I guess the good news is that expensive watches last alot longer than expensive cigars or expensive wine if used properly. 

I always find the sentimental piece most important about watches anyway, in truth. I can tell you which watch I was wearing during probably every major event in my life. So I have alot of watches "worth" more to me than this. Some I don't even like to wear because they hold so much sentimental value.And the ones I cherish the most all cost wwwaaay less combined than this one too! 

[Ginseng]

I love the look of the Steinhart Aviation! And their Nav-B as well.

Wilkey

[Ginseng]

Seiko Fifty Fathoms? As in the Blancpain? I must have missed that one. Intriguing.

While I'm here, what do you guys think about those micro brands that sell via KickStarter, et al? Some fairly nice stuff but I don't feel motivated to keep watching their sites to try and nab 1 of 100 $300 watches. Seems not worth the effort. Do any of work the pre-sale circuit?

Wilkey

[LordAnubis]

http://www.thetimebum.com/2016/03/seiko-snzh57-dagaz-five-fathoms.html

And

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f21/seiko-fff-gold-mod-3-variants-2-modern-black-621593.html

[Ginseng]

Oooh, interesting. The $450 Steinhart GMT Ocean 1 uses the same ETA 2893-2 movement as in the $2,200 Sinn 856 UTC that I like. Completely different case and materials philosophy though.

Wilkey

[Ginseng]

Cool, Mus. Kinda sorta like the Steinhart Ocean One Vintage.

Wilkey

[rhcolbert]

9 minutes ago, Ginseng said:

Oooh, interesting. The $450 Steinhart GMT Ocean 1 uses the same ETA 2893-2 movement as in the $2,200 Sinn 856 UTC that I like. Completely different case and materials philosophy though.

Wilkey

Yes it does, but it's a gmt watch that doesn't operate as a gmt should.  That movement is in a significant amount of "gmt" watches with the useless gmt jumping setting. 

Looks of function? If just looks, i'I'll bow out and cease my commentary ?

[Ginseng]

Up to you. I'm still learning and soaking it all up. I think Mus is kind of in the same boat. I say, keep it coming. For sure I can't afford a $9k watch right now. $2K, yes. And as much as I love minute repeaters, there's no way I'll ever own one of those.  A man's got to know his limitations.

I suppose this might be a terminology thing for me. When I'm Scandinavia, all I really need to get quickly is the 24-hour time back home. 

Wilkey

[LordAnubis]

Ive been ebay stalking the shit out of all the Ocean Vintage Militarys that i can find.

With my one expensive watch im only buying some cheap ass ones. If a second hand one pops up in my price range i'd buy that in an instant.

[Ginseng]

You and I must have similar tastes. I've been eyeing the Ocean One Vintage Red!

Wilkey

[LordAnubis]

It annoys me having a date on a watch. No idea why. It just does. And those fish eyes freak me right out

Ohh and the size of the stenharts is a bit big for me really. There's rumour that they will release a 39mm watch this year. I might hang out to see what that is.

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[Ginseng]

Hah! I dig that freaky cyclops and I'd rather have a date.  Getting on in years. If my watch could tell me whether or not I'm wearing pants, I might give it a fly.

39 would be sweet. 38-40 is a good sweet spot for my girlish wrists.

Wilkey

[LordAnubis]

I've also been looking for a tough bash around watches for work. My bronze wouldn't be so good since cyanide quite nicely dissolves copper . Looking at CWC SBS watches but they are expensive as ****. I would absolutely love a Tudor heritage ranger but again what the heart wants the bank account says "piss off, you're broke".


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[rhcolbert]

1 hour ago, Ginseng said:

Up to you. I'm still learning and soaking it all up. I think Mus is kind of in the same boat. I say, keep it coming. For sure I can't afford a $9k watch right now. $2K, yes. And as much as I love minute repeaters, there's no way I'll ever own one of those.  A man's got to know his limitations.

I suppose this might be a terminology thing for me. When I'm Scandinavia, all I really need to get quickly is the 24-hour time back home. 

Wilkey

Here ya go. True gmt, bet you can get em down to $1k.  Half your budget! 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/ALPINA-ALPINER-4-GMT-44MM-STEEL-BRACELET-AUTOMATIC-WATCH-AL-550X5AQ6-EXCELLENT-/282440856345?hash=item41c2c97319%3Ag%3ApogAAOSwE0JY-WcL&_trkparms=pageci%3A6d270234-26d2-11e7-b431-74dbd180747f%7Cparentrq%3A923c752e15b0abc558f4b78bffff39b7%7Ciid%3A12

[Ginseng]

Thanks for that, RHC. 

BTW, can you point me to an article or post that clearly describes the function and utility of a true GMT? I did google it, many posts, few definitive.

Wilkey

[alpyigit]

All this discussion naturally calls for a wrist shot.

[rhcolbert]

18 minutes ago, Ginseng said:

Thanks for that, RHC. 

BTW, can you point me to an article or post that clearly describes the function and utility of a true GMT? I did google it, many posts, few definitive.

Wilkey

I'll have to dig up.  I learned about it from reading forums, random articles, etc. 

ill stress this point. Decide function or fashion as priority. If you travel and want it to do the job right go for function imo.  Functionality enhances beauty imo because the product has depth.  Fashion for fashion alone sake is just skin deep

[Lotusguy]

I'll have to dig up.  I learned about it from reading forums, random articles, etc. 

ill stress this point. Decide function or fashion as priority. If you travel and want it to do the job right go for function imo.  Functionality enhances beauty imo because the product has depth.  Fashion for fashion alone sake is just skin deep

Almost all mechanical watches are pure fashion at this point - let's not kid ourselves. Maybe diving use as an exception.

[canadianbeaver]

I brought Mr Beaver to a store to buy him this watch a couple of weeks ago:

he said he is not really into watches so no thanks.

I however am very into them. These are mine. (Not magazine, my wrist)

CB

[Ginseng]

Milguass...mmmm

Wilkey

[Colt45]

It's not GMT, but the Oris Carlos Coste is a nice diver - talk to Elvis for a great deal..... 

[Ginseng]

Colt, the Carlos Coste and Aquis Small Second Date are both gorgeous if huge. The Oris watch configurator stinks though.

To Lotusguy's point, I would agree insofar as the traditional designs seem to have settled into relatively constrained stylistic orbits. Markers, hands, numbers all pretty much seem to draw from the same pool. In many cases, only fine distinctions are to be found and the meaning of these distinctions really only hold value for the most discerning or dedicated. And truly unique or exploratory, art watches like Timemachinist or Kaventsmann are so out there as to be minimally wearable. 

Function is itself a style point in this day and age. I mean who really knows how to use and actually does use the scales on the Breitling Montbrilliant or Navitimer? Do we really think anyone relies on the brilliant notes of the gongs in the Breguet 7637 Minute Repeater? How many who own the Sinn EZM 12 would actually use the pulse rotor and scale? I mean, I own divers rated to 300 M but the only chance they'll reach even 2 M is if they fall off my wrist in the pool.

Watches are a fashion accessory with functionality beyond the purely aesthetic. But nowadays, I'd argue that functionality is a distant second or third consideration.

Wilkey

[rhcolbert]

3 hours ago, Lotusguy said:

Almost all mechanical watches are pure fashion at this point - let's not kid ourselves. Maybe diving use as an exception.

Watch any video of the craftsmen putting together very complex movement watches. The craftsmanship and technicality of this is well beyond simple fashion.  15k - 100k+ ain't payin for just the designer of the case, band and dial. 

to the function point.  I bought a gmt watch as I use it.  In the office we track flights all in gmt and any other base we call will speak about a mission in gmt since we're all in different time zones.  My guys on the ramp loading/unloading use local.  My wife kids at home in another time zone.  

Explorer can give you two times with a glance and gmt can give you all three quickly.

i believe in buying what you need for the best purpose.  I'll never get a dive watch unless I actually take up diving and need it.  Post was started by someone looking to know local time and home time at a glance, so there was functionality at the root of the inquiry. 

Also, quarts is beyond fine! As I stated, owned a seiko and citizen that both had true gmt functions. All had for less than a tenth of a panerai that does the same thing mechanically.