Fishing New Zealand – Part 1.

[Ken Gargett]

A mate and I took off recently for seven days trout fishing in New Zealand's South Island, in the north part around the Nelson Lakes region. I think it is the best brown trout fishing in the world, certainly that I can ascertain from speaking to guys who have fished places I have not. The trout are not always as huge as some places but it is an extremely beautiful region. It is really a form of hunting with a fly as it is almost all sight fishing and sneaking up these streams, finding a trout, casting to it and catching it, really is a buzz.

Won't go into the old 'discussion' of dealing with obnoxious locals – most are fantastic – but I was forced at one stage to point out to a group who were watching NZ and India in a 20/20 and banging on about underarm bowling (and didn't know there was an Aussie present) that the underarm was the best thing that ever happened to NZ as it gave them a reason to drag themselves out of the fifties and also gave them something to whinge about every day – what other nation defines itself by a minor perceived injustice in a no-account sporting event from three decades earlier?

Plan was four days sharing Boris Cech, a German guide who is brilliant, and a terrific bloke, staying at a local motel. Then the final three days at Lake Rotoroa Lodge, with our usual guides – I fish with a bloke called Greg (have done so now around 4-5 times), who is sensational but no mollycoddling. We end up walking miles – sometimes 16 k's and more, climbing muddy, wasp-ridden cliffs, fording raging torrents and basically, tough if you go in. I find the toughest going is when you have to walk for several 100 metres up streams, as can't get onto the banks, in really strong currents sometimes thigh deep, on slippery and unstable rocks. With a dodgy knee, that kills me.

The Lodge is one of the great places on the planet – they look after you unbelievably well (who ever heard of a fishing lodge where, if you get up for a leak in the middle of the night, you get heated bathroom floors?) and have a full time (extremely good) chef, even if only a couple of people are staying. We had some great people from Arizona and Texas there at the same time as us.

If anyone saw the 'River Somewhere' episode in NZ, the guys stayed at the Lodge and fished the nearby D'urville. Boris was their guide. I'd been keen to meet him to ask if it really was the D'urville as I'd long heard strong rumours from some who were semi-involved in the production, that they got the big fish in the Wairau and not the D'urville. No idea why they would have hidden that – though it did send a bucketload of Aussies over to fish the D'urville. Boris wasn't saying much but at least didn't deny it. Others have been much more forthcoming.

Neither my mate nor myself particularly enjoy sharing guides, as I reckon it cuts your fishing way down – first day, I'd had three casts by lunch and fourth day, none – as your mate stumbles about or something else happens. But we did it this time. And we are extremely competitive so it was quite fun. It also allows a chance for some photography and also to sneak an occasional cigar.

We also took two chopper rides – feeling is that in general, though not always, if you want the biggies, a chopper ride is necessary. But very exy.

It had been a good, not great season. Boris had not got a trophy yet this season (here, that is a ten pounder – never understood why Americans do trout by length as you can get long, thin, snaky ones that are longer than really solid trout in great condition that weigh twice the old snakes – know what I'd rather catch) – he is known as the big fish guide and one year had over 30 trophies. Nor had Greg or, it seemed, any of the guides, though there had been a few 8lbers and their ilk.

We flew into the Rough on day one for an overnight camp, so had two days here. I think it is the most beautiful of all the rivers. Dense, old forests, with branches feet thick with moss, line the banks. I don't know where they filmed the bit in Lord of the rings re Fangorn Forest but it should have been here. If an Ent walked out, you wouldn't really be surprised. It is not a 'big fish' river but has reasonable numbers and the fish are just magnificently coloured – often gold, almost orange, rather than brown. Amazing how much they vary in colour from river to river. The first big trout I ever got was in this river so I love it. And the camp-out was a hoot – Boris used to be a chef and we had the duty free etc. Gus and I trying to climb into a tiny tent near midnight and set out our sleeping bags and blow up mattresses etc, was too funny. Gus decided that I 'allegedly' snore so then moved out but set up right next door to the tent and wondered why he could still hear me. Then dragged himself off into the bush. Claimed not a wink of sleep. Boris asked him if the rain had bothered him. 'What rain?'

Got five up to 5 ½, first day and Gus got two with a 6lber. Got two the next day and Gus got four. Most around the 5lbs.

One broke me off but went to the other side of the river and started feeding again – extremely rare. Hooked him a second time and even got the first fly back. This almost never happens – it had been about ten years since Boris had seen it.

Next day, we flew into the Deepdale, one of NZ's most famous rivers. It is the river Boris is most closely linked with though some other guides will not fish it at all, believing that there is a very good chance that there clients won't catch a fish. It is known as the River of Big Trout and Long Faces, as it holds seriously large fish but many who try come out empty. It is extremely clear, making it harder as the fish can spot you and will bolt, and has plenty of food for the trout. They are extremely spooky and picky. Gus got a 5 1/2lber, by far the smallest fish we saw. He missed one trophy by poor line management.

I had a crack at two trophies first half of the day. One had half a glance at the fly and buggered off – nothing much one can do, but the other, surely 12 plus and in magnificent condition, almost orange (it was in a large shallow-ish pool, with another almost as big twenty feet in front of it and feeding like a demon), looked a chance.

Now I reckon I have seen every possible way to lose a fish but I found another one. To have a crack at this fish, we had to go back and climb down through the bush well behind it, then sneak around a thin ledge, as it was deep at this part of the pool and then climb out on the back of an island of rock, hide behind it, and cast about 40 feet with a backhander – I just looked at Boris and said, 'you are kidding right?' Tried it and first cast went a few feet behind the fish, no one more surprised than me. The whopper actually turned and chased the fly, which stunned us all, then swerved last second but went back to serious feeding so we thought we might still have a shot. Tried a few more casts but just could not get it far enough when, mid cast, a searing pain shoots through my back. Our wasps are bad but NZ has introduced European wasps and they are killers, really severe. So I am flailing about trying to get it out from under my shirt, wailing like a banshee – Christ they hurt. Gus and Boris think I've gone mad. The trout not happy at the fuss. Managed a few more casts but it was all over. Had lunch back up on the cliff overlooking the pool and watched these two massive trout chase each other around he pool. Amazing site.

The last shot i have posted before. It is the view from the Lodge on a good day.

More soon.

[Guest rob]

They are some seriously good looking fish.

We have some pretty amazing trout down here... but I still think going to NZ would be an awesome adventure. The scenery alone would be worth it.

Nice write up KG.

[asmith]

I'm thinking you're turning into a Kiwi Ken. You have spent more time there this year than any other country, thats not a good thing.

[FlyFishingDude]

That is a fantastic story Ken! Looking forward to chapter 2.

Mike

[anacostiakat]

Beautiful. . .

[Ken Gargett]

I'm thinking you're turning into a Kiwi Ken. You have spent more time there this year than any other country, thats not a good thing.

never thought i'd hear such blasphemy or outright stupidity, even from you. i think your wookie hair has gown inwards and your light sabre is where no light shines.

[Tampa1257]

Ken, I moved this thread over to the Correct Forum, which BTW was set up specifically for Fishing, duh.........

[Ken Gargett]

Ken, I moved this thread over to the Correct Forum, which BTW was set up specifically for Fishing, duh.........

ta tampa and bugger - i did mean to do that but i managed it once and that was too much for a repeat performance.

[El Presidente]

Great read Ken. I look forward to joining you on one of these shortly.