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Posted

Hey all

Always wanted a pocket watch, liked the old school feel about them. The quality of the product etc. The uniqueness of some of them.

Just after any advice which you guys can push my way with regards to high end quality watches. What to look for with regards to brands etc.

I am after quality and craftmanship.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Sharks

Posted

I don't personally know much about pocket watches, but my dad collected pocket watches for several years and I now have 1/2 of his collection.  

Most of what he collected were made by South Bend.  I'm not sure exactly why he chose that brand, but that's what he primarily collected.  He focused on those that were "railroad approved" and off the the top of my head, primarily collected models 223, 229, 323, 328, and 329.  The 328 is a very scarce piece as there are only known maybe to be a couple dozen known to be in existence today...and I have 2 of them. :)  Most of the others are the 229 and 329's and they all seem to have a bit of a different story because they will have different dials of varying "blandness" or complexity, much like the case can be a very plain gold plated all the way up to a 14k/18k gold case.  

There are plenty of nice looking running watches you can find for around $300-400, but you can also get into thousands quite easily, particularly if you have a solid gold case and a rare model number.  

 

Posted

It's a wide subject ... not unlike cigars.

;)

Basically, it depends what you like, what interests you, and of course on your budget.  Assuming that you may want to begin with a "starter watch" that isn't too pricy, keeps reasonable good time and looks decent while still of good quality, I would look to American or English products.  These days, the Swiss watch industry likes to pretend that they pretty much invented mechanical timekeeping, but that simply ain't so.  To put it simply, the Swiss industry started its steep rise to global domination the same way the Japanese upset consumer electronics from the 1960s on: by mass-producing and flooding the world markets with lots of cheap crap, driving the established national industries of other watch-producing countries out of business.  In their heyday, American and British manufacturers produced far better watches, both in terms of looks and quality.  So look out for these brands: Waltham, Hamilton, Howard and Elgin for the Americans; Benson, Roskell, Dent and Russell for the Brits.  Decent examples of these can be found from $500-1,500.  

What to look out for:

  • that it can be wound easily and that it ticks.  Check that it winds easily and without skipping over wheels when you wind it.  Sounds basic, but it is amazing how many people don't do this.
  • that the dial is in good condition -- the majority of the watches have enamel dials which cannot be repaired.
  • that the case is not dented: rubbing of decorative engraving is acceptable, IMO, as it indicates honest wear, but dents are unsightly and expensive to fix.
  • high-grade jewelling: 19 to 21 stones are advisable for plain timekeepers.  The use of ruby jeweling massively reduces friction which reduces wear and tear and seriously improves the accuracy.  IOW, when you look at a movement, the arbor in the middle of the movement should always have a jewel.
  • don't buy online.  Always go to a shop and handle the item.  
  • take your time.  Don't rush into purchases.
  • accept that you will make mistakes if you decide that this is a hobby for you.  It is inevitable that you will buy watches with faults that will be pricy to repair.
  • check the movement of the hands and that you can easily set them.
  • buy from a reputable dealer who should only ever sell you a watch in good working condition, cleaned and oiled.  Servicing a watch can cost several hundred dollars, so this really is a must. 

I would recommend that in the first instance you look at open-faced watches in silver cases.  This will reduce the cost (gold is very pricy right now) and silver is harder-wearing, more durable.  Also bear in mind that you will also have to budget for a watch chain to go with your watch -- that can be another few hundred dollars on top of the watch.  If you really want the gold look, go American: they made high-quality gold-rolled cases that have a very thick plating which looks good even 150 years later.  

 

Anything else , I am happy to help....

  • Like 1
Posted

thanks guys great info there much appreciated..

A few of the names you guys mentioned have come up in my research.

Lots of advice, thanks again gents you may get a couple of pm's your way if that's ok..

Regards

Sharks

Posted

I love pocket watches, but have mostly cheap fashion styles. Below are some that I lust over, but most I can't bring myself to spend an enormous amount of money on.

Panerai PAM 446

Bell & Ross PW1

Tissot Pocket 1920

Gevril Lapine 

Bovet- Which is a tres cool pocket/wrist combo watch

 

Posted

This thread so needs some Pics!

Posted

Ok...

The super rare South Bend 328

d767b063836b931c4c766d4f11ed2a0a.jpg

b8b51d010e273a5d358ad86118104af2.jpg

Three of my other favorite South Bend watches:

de46eb0736453f63b3ee90d0ae3c4946.jpg

cfeca90af5883f8ac29077c3524e8cce.jpg

First watch i ever bought myself:

167915e1aebd3886a5b0421fbc4974bd.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

  • Like 3
Posted

I really like pocket watches.  Not a practical accessory for me except for those days/evenings I get gussied up in my Sunday go to meeting clothes (which is rare).  Great pieces Forgop!

 

 

Posted
18 hours ago, forgop said:

Ok...

The super rare South Bend 328

d767b063836b931c4c766d4f11ed2a0a.jpg

b8b51d010e273a5d358ad86118104af2.jpg

Three of my other favorite South Bend watches:





First watch i ever bought myself:



Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

Looks smich mate great stuff :)

Posted

I love this topic. Pocket watches were once a passion of mine. I used to haunt the antique stores and buy old pocket watches, there were some real bargains to be found as from time to time the seller didn't really know what they had.

I would bring them home and dismantle clean and repair them. I had all my fingers back then.:P

Vintage is the way to go, you are buying a real little bit of history that you can use if you are feeling a bit eccentric and it doesn't need to cost a fortune.

Here are a few to wet your appetite.

 

 

pocket watches.jpg

  • Like 3

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