the annual fraser island fishing trip

[Ken Gargett]

The Fraser Cigar Diary.

This was something I did up on Fraser last week. Best chance of the year, bar actually getting across to Cuba, to enjoy a few cigars.

Monday of the annual Fraser Island fishing trip. Everything perfect so far with the small issue of there being bugger all fish. Eight of us up at Waddy Lodge, mostly usual crowd with one or two newbies. Three of the guys up there already (they'd been on the island for four days already with another group), four of us travel up to Rainbow Beach on the Friday and cross early Saturday and one up on the Sunday. This time of year, you are not permitted to fish the rocks, so it will all be on the beaches.

Usual hopeless mad rush to get things finished and packed Friday morning. Two of us taking up a ute for one of the guys already there. Such a panic in getting ready that I threw in 8 boxes of fishing gear with the intent of sorting it there. So all the trout gear, reef gear, you name it. All but my main surf reel!

Had a Hoyo Dieux from the 2003 cabinet on the way up. This was the same cab that Rob and I had two from for the videos. We loved them and I've had a great many glorious smokes from it. I guess there was always going to be a dud and what a shocker. Bitter, bitter, bitter. Threw it out before the end. An absolutely awful cigar. Amazing that such a dog could be in the same boxes as the fabulous ones. Not a good omen.

The four of us had a good feed at Rainbow that night. We knew we needed to be up 5-ish next day for the barge to the island so it couldn't be too big an evening. Whoops. I had another Dieux and it was back to good form, thankfully. Next morning, seven empty bottles of wine and an empty case of beer littering the unit. Sore heads but we soldiered on.

Couple of breakfast pies and a bit of Keystone Kops getting on the barge then headed up the beach. It is about two hours plus up the beach to the Lodge. Picked up a bucket of eugaries for additional bait. JK, who was in the Ute with me, gets very antsy if he can't drive. So I wind him up for a while and then offer him the wheel on the condition I can have a cigar and sing to the ipod. Such a glorious day that I could not resist and fired up the one Cohiba LE 2006 Pyramide I'd brought. Fabulous but it burnt like a bushfire. Was all over in about 25 minutes which was very disappointing. But great while it lasted, so we blasted along the beach, glorious day, and me singing Bruce at the top of my voice. Does it get better? Not even Bruce has done a version of 'Trapped' like this one.

We unpack, settle in, a few welcome drinks, my cousin is the current caretaker and he informs us no fish. The other three confirm it when they arrive. But the dingoes, wallabies (real ones, not the pretenders wandering around rugby fields looking utterly bewildered) and goannas very active.

We tried to head up to the nearby Deliverance Cafe (our name for it, but for obvious reasons if you've ever been) for the Wallabies ( not the real ones but the pretenders) but, it not being a League game, is of little interest in these parts so it was back to the balcony to listen on an old radio. What a disaster all round. Salvaged by a wonderful Hoyo LE 2003 Pyramide.

Usually up early to fish but there is nothing around, except right down the south end of the island, so it was decided to head over to the east beach south of Indian Head for the high tide at midday. Got one small tailor and one of the other guys did likewise but that was it. Lovely day, though. Lots of stingrays swimming past. I gave one a poke with the rod and it just kept swimming slowly. One shark about seven foot long slid past about 30 feet from shore. It turned and had a look at my pilchard but moved on. Would have been fun but there would have been only one outcome and I would have had far less line left.

And a fabulous Partagas LE 2003 D2 on the beach. Piggy and others, bag the LE's all you like but there are some stunners amongst them which make them more than worthwhile. Back for lunch – a friend had given us several slabs of smoked salmon, the same source as Tetsuya's! Fantastic. Arvo sleep. Then one of the guys made a brilliant seafood chowder (we do eat and drink well) but I had to insist he keep the eugaries out of it. Just not into eating bait.

Today (this being added to over several days), one of the most glorious days imaginable. This is mid winter and no one has needed anything more than a t-shirt, even at night. Unheard of! Like a fresh Spring day. But what was especially amazing was the extraordinary clarity. The colours were so deep and crisp. We could see the tip of the Cape, 40 kilometres away, as though it were next door. Just brilliant. Lovely day wandering up and down looking for fish. Nothing to be found. I had a seriously brilliant SLR DC – had everything about it one could wish. Fish would just be a rude interruption.

Back for a steak lunch, a sleep and now preparing for dinner. But a cold, very cold change has just arrived – much more like what we expect this time of year. The guys just cooking up a chicken curry and we are having a few pre-dinner cheeses with the sherry. This is a magical place.

Was a bit windy the following day as we went up and down the island chasing fish but nothing at all in terms of fish again. Did see the local rubbish contractor stop collecting garbage for a while and hook a terrific bream. Had my final Dieux – it was one all and this the decider. It was one of the best. All you could want. Even better was to come that evening with a 2000 CoRo that was truly magnificent, endless glorious aromas and perfectly structured, it just kept giving for ages.

Next day, another perfect and still day. Started with venison rissoles for brekkie and finished with the annual duck feast. A few guys caught a couple of tiny tailor that must have strayed from their mum. Otherwise, spent the morning in glorious weather – the cold has gone – with a delightful, gentle Monte A. couple of hours of very pleasant smoking on the balcony reading a book, having some fizz and chatting to the guys.

Thursday, fishing delayed as one of the guys has to bolt home and his car in strife. Cold and wet for a change. There are reports that the fish are starting to move up the Island but nothing yet. Had a really rich and fruitcake-y Partagas P2. The best P2 I've had in a long time.

Friday, back to a glorious day and we headed a little south. What was utterly memorable was the extraordinary display by the whales. They had been active all week but a small pod put on a display of tail-whacking for about forty minutes – this was only a few hundred metres offshore. They eventually drifted north and we heard they were still going several hours later (I'm hoping it was tail-whacking for fun and not fending off sharks). Then a sole whale executed around 40 to 50 full length back flops, again just offshore. Brilliant stuff – the more I see of these amazing animals, the more I think that any barbarian who could hurt them, let alone stick a harpoon into them, deserves to be dipped in blood and fed to starving dogs. Shooting whale killers would be one use of a gun that would get my full approval.

As for fish, we finally got a few. About a dozen all up, including one excellent one that jumped on my line. The rest were all just choppers. No idea where this one came from or more importantly, where his friends were, but it was fun. Afterwards, sat on the beach with Des and had a couple of PLPC's. They are from a cabinet that has been disappointing. Almost all of them quite hard and harsh (pulled out a couple to smoke with Rob when back to show him what I meant, and wouldn't you know it – those were the best two from the entire cabinet).

Easy trip off the Island on the Saturday. Can't wait to get back.

A few photos.

the balcony and the view north. in the second photo, not so many years ago, the beach ended where the swamp now starts and there was only a tiny strip of beach to drive along. it has been amazing how much it has changed and especially, how much it has moved out and expanded. and there are some decent fish in there. not sure what but the last time beach lakes developed, when they emptied them, they actually found a couple of large barramundi in there.

no fish

yet another version of bruce and a cigar.

the house

looking towards waddy point

evidence of the sad end to a beach snail

the complex from the beach

indian head

driving along the beach.

[MrGlass]

In the fear of being shunned from this place, I don't particularly enjoy fishing. That being said, god damned can you write a good review Ken. You made that trip sound fantastic. Thank you.

Nick.

[Ken Gargett]

thanks nick. on this latest trip, a lack of interest in fishing would have been no impediment.

[Colt45]

Not even Bruce has done a version of 'Trapped' like this one.

And I'm betting "trapped" is exactly how you car mates felt.......

Thanks for the tale, and as usual, I'm jealous of the pics.

P.S. Assuming you crushed your coccyx on the trip, I'll now always think of Fraser as brokeback beach........

[samb]

AWESOME PICS!!!

[rckymtn22]

Great pictures, reminds me of my visit to Fraser Island in 2001, fascinating place

[FlyingFossil]

Dam I got to make my way there one day ..

Good write up Ken thanx

[Ken Gargett]

And I'm betting "trapped" is exactly how you car mates felt.......

Thanks for the tale, and as usual, I'm jealous of the pics.

P.S. Assuming you crushed your coccyx on the trip, I'll now always think of Fraser as brokeback beach........

no, back lasted the trip and died after it.

there may be some truth in your other comment re those in the car.

[Colt45]

no, back lasted the trip and died after it.

close enough.

[thechenman]

Thanks for sharing the trip with us Ken. Sounds like a great time with good friends and fantastic cigars...well except for the first Deux and maybe the PLPCs.

[MIKA27]

As always Ken, love reading up on your trips as well as seeing the pics.

[Traz]

Combining fishing with cigar smoking? Sounds like one of the greatest things in the world. Add liquor into the mix? Legen-...wait for it...-dary. I mean, Traz wholeheartedly supports the responsible service of---hey look! A bird!

Awesome stuff.