Let's talk Tequila

[JasonInChiTown]

I've always been a fan of tequila - it's definitely a polarizing spirit, you either hate the taste and one smell brings you back to the days of college, drinking shots Montezuma and waking up on a random couch or your bathroom floor; or you can really enjoy sipping a fine tequila and enjoy subtleties like a single malt scotch. But recently have been pairing with my favorite smoke - in particular anejo's. [blancos are typically not aged; Reposado 2-6 months; Anejo 1-3 years]

Anejo's have a deep amber color, similar to bourbon and typically aged in whiskey barrels, hence the color. The taste is much smoother, richer and complex than a blanco or repo. I've noticed that when I pair cigars with an anejo, it bring out an intense honey flavor and really highlights the sweetness of the tobacco - which I love.

Some recommended favorites

Hornitos Anejo - great price for quality, its very refreshing, and an everyday favorite. Pairs amazingly with a RASS

Corazon Anejo - has a floral nose and great caramel tastes

El Tesoro Anejo - medium bodied, hints of butterscotch

Don Julio Anejo - full bodied with hints of honey and vanilla

Cabo Wabo Anejo - full bodied, little leathery - goes great with a full bodied cigar

Does anyone enjoy pairing tequila and cigars? Any suggested brands?

[Habanos2000]

I too enjoy a good añejo with a cigar every now and then. One of my favs is Reserva de la Familia by Cuervo. Nice box, nice bottle, nice tequila. Just need some warm weather and I'll be good to go!

[ucla695]

I second Corazon Anejo...great tequila for a sipping with a good cigar!

[ipfoley]

I haven't had it with a smoke, but I really enjoy the Centenario Blue as a great sippin drink.

[Ken Gargett]

i do some annual spirit reviews for an aussie trade mag. usually do rum and sometimes cognac etc but a year or two ago, i volunteered for tequilla as i wanted to learn more about it - no better way. came out the other end utterly unimpressed by it as a spirit for anything other than appropriate cocktails etc. could not find one i'd sip straight. may be there are none. even some mentioned here. the problem to me is obvious. how the hell do they compete with the top malts, rums, cognacs etc that have seen many years, sometimes decades, maturing when the oldest tequilla is about 2 or 3 years old. they don't stand a chance.

[Ken Gargett]

and completely off the point, the spellcheck on my computer must have been set on 'american' when i got the thing as it did not recognise the word 'cheque' - which i believe is spelt check, as in bank check, in other parts. it kept trying to turn it into tequila.

which is not a bad thing.

[reg]

I've had very little exposure to tequila, at least in relative terms, only try a few. My experience has been cheap, jose cuervo, or ****** at a bar, patron. obviously these aren't good representations of what good tequila could be. I would be interested in trying some of the better stuff, i'll be keeping in mind what you guys suggest. but like ken said, I think time would be better spent looking for a single malt or rum that I enjoy

[Thing6000]

I also enjoy the Hornitos with a cigar. Its very smooth and i prefer it over alot of the more expensive brands.

[SnakeHips]

i do some annual spirit reviews for an aussie trade mag. usually do rum and sometimes cognac etc but a year or two ago, i volunteered for tequilla as i wanted to learn more about it - no better way. came out the other end utterly unimpressed by it as a spirit for anything other than appropriate cocktails etc. could not find one i'd sip straight. may be there are none. even some mentioned here. the problem to me is obvious. how the hell do they compete with the top malts, rums, cognacs etc that have seen many years, sometimes decades, maturing when the oldest tequilla is about 2 or 3 years old. they don't stand a chance.

I'd like to address this as a tequila fan. 2-3 years is very old for a tequila, and to me is much too old. Tequila doesn't do well with aging in barrels - it loses almost all of its flavor to brown-liquor flavors, and I think añejo tequilas are a waste of good tequila. Tequila is a spirit opposite of the top malts, rums, cognacs, etc. - the less age the more character. High-end blancos/platinos can be smoother than comparable high-end whisk[e]ys, rums, brandies, etc. and have a completely unique character and taste. The less time spent in a barrel, the more agave flavor. The difference is that the higher you go in price, the higher quality of agave is used, the better the distillations are and the more traditional the fermentations and preparations are (ground with stones and fermented in stone, for example), rather than anything to do with blending, aging and terroir. That said, most tequilas are great in reposado form. The miniscule amount of barrel aging allows for the savory brown-liquor flavors to appear but without destroying the agave flavor-base like añejos do. I like the reposado for this reason in some tequilas, but for appreciating a good tequila or trying a new tequila the blanco/platino is always the one to go to, to taste the spirit in its most authentic and most characteristic form.

Tequilas to try:

Herradura

If for whatever reason you can't get Herradura, Don Julio will suffice without disappointment.

-----------------------

Anyway, I don't drink tequila with cigars; the flavors clash to my palate. 'Good' tequila shouldn't be obstructed by competing flavors except for sangrita if you actually like the stuff. This is not a snobbish thing, I just find very few things that complement the flavor of tequila, or at the very least that don't inhibit it.

[Tariacuri]

AHHHHHH tequila - so dear to my heart. That is now the drink of choice for the evening. Question now, what to smoke?

All of the below is true - great response SnakeHips. Just make sure everything you are drinking is 100% agave - it must say so on the bottle - anything else (IMO) is essentially bovine urine (if you are lucky). It also must have a NOM #- which denotes the distillery - you can track these like Cuban box codes though I've never bothered. Herradura blanco is what the old men sip when they play dominoes and to me is the 'classic' tequila, used to have a blue horse shoe on the bottle. When mixing look for Cabritos -cheap but 100% agave.

El Tesoro is my fav. boutique tequila, they lots of cool info and informational videos on their website.

El Tesoro Tequila

And of course, not to forget mezcal - a completely different animal. Best mezcal I've ever had was the home brew from the summer I spent working in Oaxaca. Came in a Coke bottle with a corn cob for a stopper - I was able to carry that on the plane - couldn't do that now.

I smoke quite a few cigars with tequila, mezcal, and sotol over the summer but certainly do agree that's it's a different experience then with a rum. Prehispanic folks would have smoked proto-cigars and other tobacco with agave-like drinks - and also chocolate-based drinks - cacao, tobacco, and proto-tequila/mezcal all being exclusive to the america's prior to A.D. 1492.

And finally, over the last couple of summers I've discovered specialty terraces that were probably used for pulque production (Prehispanic version of tequila), not that that makes any sort of tequila expert.

Apúpato pulque production

So . . . I've got tequila on my brain lately.

I'd like to address this as a tequila fan. 2-3 years is very old for a tequila, and to me is much too old. Tequila doesn't do well with aging in barrels - it loses almost all of its flavor to brown-liquor flavors, and I think añejo tequilas are a waste of good tequila. Tequila is a spirit opposite of the top malts, rums, cognacs, etc. - the less age the more character. High-end blancos/platinos can be smoother than comparable high-end whisk[e]ys, rums, brandies, etc. and have a completely unique character and taste. The less time spent in a barrel, the more agave flavor. The difference is that the higher you go in price, the higher quality of agave is used, the better the distillations are and the more traditional the fermentations and preparations are (ground with stones and fermented in stone, for example), rather than anything to do with blending, aging and terroir. That said, most tequilas are great in reposado form. The miniscule amount of barrel aging allows for the savory brown-liquor flavors to appear but without destroying the agave flavor-base like añejos do. I like the reposado for this reason in some tequilas, but for appreciating a good tequila or trying a new tequila the blanco/platino is always the one to go to, to taste the spirit in its most authentic and most characteristic form.

Tequilas to try:

Herradura

If for whatever reason you can't get Herradura, Don Julio will suffice without disappointment.

-----------------------

Anyway, I don't drink tequila with cigars; the flavors clash to my palate. 'Good' tequila shouldn't be obstructed by competing flavors except for sangrita if you actually like the stuff. This is not a snobbish thing, I just find very few things that complement the flavor of tequila, or at the very least that don't inhibit it.

[Habanos2000]

how the hell do they compete with the top malts, rums, cognacs etc that have seen many years, sometimes decades, maturing when the oldest tequilla is about 2 or 3 years old. they don't stand a chance.

I don't see tequila so much as competing against rums/cognacs, as an alternative to them. And in that respect you can compare and contrast all tequilas amongst themselves and judge them accordingly.

As far as which tequila to pair with a cigar, for me, only añejo's will do. Blanco's and reposados are fine for mixing.

[Tariacuri]

the problem to me is obvious. how the hell do they compete with the top malts, rums, cognacs etc that have seen many years, sometimes decades, maturing when the oldest tequilla is about 2 or 3 years old. they don't stand a chance.

Hey Ken, I can understand the confusion since you are used to dealing with 'aged' spirits. It probably seems counterintuitive (one word?? why coming up in spellcheck?) but tequila should be consumed young - especially when compared to the above. It also decays pretty quickly once opened - similar to wine.

Mezcal can be aged but is hard to find - I've had 10 and 15 year old Mezcal - smoother but will still take the enamel off your teeth (LOL).

This is the place to get real Mezcal - ~$70 bottle

Single Origin Mezcal

[samb]

Wow, interesting thread on tequila. Ive never quite been able to find a good sippng tequila, but I havent tried. I will definitely look into it now.

[Colt45]

Anyway, I don't drink tequila with cigars; the flavors clash to my palate.

Agree completely with this - clash is the perfect descriptor for me as well. I do enjoy tequlia, but almost always in a mixed drink.

[alan2]

I too enjoy a good añejo with a cigar every now and then. One of my favs is Reserva de la Familia by Cuervo. Nice box, nice bottle, nice tequila. Just need some warm weather and I'll be good to go!

I second that! Great Tequila. I love to sip it with a good cigar.

[Ken Gargett]

I'd like to address this as a tequila fan. 2-3 years is very old for a tequila, and to me is much too old. Tequila doesn't do well with aging in barrels - it loses almost all of its flavor to brown-liquor flavors, and I think añejo tequilas are a waste of good tequila. Tequila is a spirit opposite of the top malts, rums, cognacs, etc. - the less age the more character. High-end blancos/platinos can be smoother than comparable high-end whisk[e]ys, rums, brandies, etc. and have a completely unique character and taste. The less time spent in a barrel, the more agave flavor. The difference is that the higher you go in price, the higher quality of agave is used, the better the distillations are and the more traditional the fermentations and preparations are (ground with stones and fermented in stone, for example), rather than anything to do with blending, aging and terroir. That said, most tequilas are great in reposado form. The miniscule amount of barrel aging allows for the savory brown-liquor flavors to appear but without destroying the agave flavor-base like añejos do. I like the reposado for this reason in some tequilas, but for appreciating a good tequila or trying a new tequila the blanco/platino is always the one to go to, to taste the spirit in its most authentic and most characteristic form.

Tequilas to try:

Herradura

If for whatever reason you can't get Herradura, Don Julio will suffice without disappointment.

please don't misunderstand. i did the tasting/article because i was interested to find out more - i found out they are not for me, young or old. obviously there are many many fans, whether as cocktails or not - the sector is way too big for there not to be.

tasted my way through pretty much everything from young to old etc of don julio, patron, trago, herradura and a few others i think. will dig out the article if i can find it and post it and love to hear from tequlia fans what i got wrong. i also have a feeling we had a post on tequlia some time ago and there were lots of recommendations.

and for fans of the stuff, if you are visiting oz, please come by and help me get rid of some of it. all the leftover bottles are sitting in the bottom of the cupboard.

[Ken Gargett]

this was the article - it should be noted that it was for the trade, not consumers. and i even managed a plug for this place.

NLN - Tequila

Hands up those among us whose first reaction, when tequila is mentioned, to think worms, Eagles' songs, embarrassing late nights licking, sipping and sucking and suffering massively for it next day, and even a bad pun or two (tequila mockingbird?). Until recently, mine would be first raised. Go back a few years and tequila was code for the worst form of alcoholic self abuse. What we saw here was harsh, unpleasant, seemingly raw and without any redeeming features whatsoever. You drank tequila for one reason only and it was not a pretty one, though for a good many, this seems to apply today as much as ever. Just as the world has worked out that if one delves into most categories of spirits, there will be the good and bad, or perhaps that should run from the exceptional to the diabolical, it has come to understand that the same applies to tequila. It should come as no surprise.

Reasons for the transformation that has seen it become the fastest growing category in the States and well ahead of competitors (to the extent that more tequila is drunk in the USA than in Mexico these days), include the support of leading bartenders, always crucial. This would not have come about if the producers had not made a concerted effort to identify their spirit as more than the binge drinkers' favourite friend and to re-position it as an ultra-premium, sophisticated drink, an alternative to the top whiskeys, gins, vodkas, cognacs and rums. The improvement in packaging has played a vital role here.

There is also a rather nebulous link to sauvignon blanc. How so? Just as savvy has exploded in recent years on the back of the 'ABC' movement – anything but chardonnay – so too, has tequila benefited from what they are calling in the USA, the 'ABV' push – anything but vodka. The thrill of the new and the challenge that brings, a point of difference and closely aligning tequila with lifestyle have all helped. There is every indication that the push for quality tequila is only in the infant stage and that we will be seeing much more of it in the next few years. Producers are looking to further improve packaging and release more and more top shelf tequilas on to the market. Australia is pretty much a blank slate for them to work with. We will see more from not only the multi-nationals but expect to see smaller, family-based operations with quality tequila brought here by enterprising distributors. Expect the bigger drinks conglomerates to strengthen their tequila portfolios and for existing large producers to release new tequilas targeting the premium sector. Brown Forman paid US$776m for the Herradura brand while analysts believe that Pernod Ricard are highly likely to make a play for Patron, though this may not happen for several years.

To see the category continue to expand will require close attention from the producers, visits by makers (such as the recent trip down under by Ruben Aceves of Casa Herradura, who performed a series of masterclasses and dinners designed to improve consumer knowledge of tequila), and by local reps, apparently better known as brand ambassadors these days. Awareness of the spirit itself and how to drink it is very low here.

Behind the USA and Mexico, the next best markets for tequila are, in descending order, Germany, South Africa and Canada. On a percentage basis, tequila has outstripped the growth in any other spirit over the last ten years (1997 to 2007), though we must acknowledge that this is somewhat distorted by the fact that tequila comes from a smaller base. Euromonitor International notes tequila's increase as 45% (an increase of 68 million litres to a total of 219 million); rum performed next best with a 42% increase (which translates to an improvement of 355 million litres to 1,193 million); and third was whiskey with 34% (up 544 million litres to 2,133 million).

Patron has proved enormously successful, with top end sales tripling in just a few years. It has been described as the second most successful launch of a drinks product in recent years, behind only Grey Goose Vodka.

The views of James France from Vanguard Luxury Brands, which represent Trago Tequila, confirms tequila's new direction. “Tequila remains the bartender’s pet tipple. Thanks to the endorsement of leading bartenders, we are seeing consumers begin to appreciate high quality tequilas and we are overcoming much of the stigma that tequila has suffered for many years in this country. An example of the increased knowledge levels in regards to tequila is that the first question I am asked when presenting Trago to my customers is whether or not it is a highland tequila. (Trago is a highland tequila, affording it a sweetness derived from the red volcanic soil in which the blue agaves grow.) There has been a great deal of interest in Trago tequila which only just became available in this market in late July. People are drawn to its amazing packaging and are well-rewarded when they taste the award-winning tequila inside the bottle. I see a very positive future for premium and super-premium tequilas as the quality continues to improve and education about how it is made and how best to enjoy it filters through the wider population. However, even though we have come a long way in this regard over the last 5 or so years, there is still a long way to go. I stand by my mantra of 'good tequila is not an oxymoron!'”

Casa Herradura brought the first tequila expert to Australia. Aceves was born in the heart of blue agave territory and is on a mission to “help consumers clear out all the misconceptions and educate the world about the history, heritage, Mexican authenticity, flavour profile and mixability of tequila.” Herradura, which means horseshoe in Spanish, is made from 100% blue agave, as are all serious tequilas. Herradura Silver, a white Tequila, is aged in oak barrels for 40 days. Herradura Reposado or ‘rested’ tequila is aged for 11 months, five times the norm, in white oak barrels, while Herradura Ańejo doubles the norm by aging for two years in white oak barrels. Selección Suprema is aged for over four years but at a recommended price of $500 a bottle, it will be interesting to see if there are many takers. Don Julio, an ultra-premium tequila from the Los Altos region and one which, along with Patron and Cuervo's top tequilas, is considered to have been at the forefront of the explosion of interest in tequila in the USA, is also making a push into Australia. Currently available on premise, it will be also be made available off premise within six months. Another tequila at the ultra-premium end of the market, Partida, will also soon be available here.

An aside. Just what is tequila? First, what it is not. It is not made from a cactus but rather the blue agave, a plant that grows wild throughout Mexico. It is a later incarnation of fermented pulque from that plant and plays a major role in the mythology of that country. It even had its own god, Tetzcatzoncatl, who had an entourage of 400 intoxicated rabbits. When distillation arrived with the Spanish conquistadors, tequila and mezcal took over. Hence, tequila is a distillate of the blue agave, which is in fact a type of desert lily. There are some 200 strains of agave plants and this one, the blue, must grow in one of five designated regions, for the result to be 'tequila'. It takes almost a decade to reach maturity. The heart of these plants is starch, which when distilled, will give around 2 ½ litres of tequila. The closely related mezcal can be made from a range of different agave plants and does not have the same regional restrictions. It is aid that technically, tequila is simply an upmarket form of mezcal. Mezcal is often sweetened or flavoured. Here is where one finds the worm. The gusano worm, which lives in the agave, is found in many brands of mezcal. There are many supposed reasons as to why a worm is added but in reality, it is little more than a marketing gimmick but one that has probably hindered the drink's, and tequila's by association, reputation.

Blanco (White)/Silver and Gold tequilas tend to cater for the commercial market and it is with the Reposado and Añejo tequilas that the flight to quality is taking place. The tequila known as Blanco is that which is fresh from the still. It should have the flavour of the blue agave and is traditionally enjoyed in a caballito, a small two-oz glass. This is considered to be the first of the tequilas.

Reposado is a rested white tequila that has been kept in white oak casks or vats called "pipones" for between two months and one year. Time in oak confers a mellow taste, a pale colour and should offer a more gentle experience. When blanco tequila is aged in white oak casks, which do not exceed 600 litres, for more than a year, an amber colour and woody flavour develop, and we have Añejo. It is rare to find a tequila aged for more than a few years but some producers are experimenting with it.

Where better to get unbiased info on what is hot in the tequila market than from the States themselves? My favourite Cuban cigar forum (www.friendsofhabanos.com) discusses everything from fishing to drinks, as well as cigars. Many members are based in the USA and they happily launched into the topic of top tequilas and were as passionate about their favourites, and often dismissive of those that were not, as one could wish. Many are not available in Australia but the most popular were, in no particular order, Arrette Gran Clase Añejo, Corzo Añejo, Cabo Wabo, La Certeza Blanco, Trago, Sauza Hornitos (Reposado), Los Azulajos Reposado, Cazadores, Don Julio Reposado, Cuervo Reserva de la Familia, Herradura Reposado, Patron Añejo, 1800 Silver Select and Espolon Añejo.

A tasting of some of the tequilas available here – in the Blanco class, the Don Julio was fresh, floral and classy. Trago Silver had a noticeable pungency with soft spice and floral notes. Herradura Silver was interesting with a pale yellowy green colour, a mustard seed note and some enticing rustic earthy truffly notes. Moving to the Reposados, Olmeca is a mid length style with pleasant citrus and orange notes. Trago, which does have fabulous packaging, was yellow with upfront flavours, very aromatic and mellow. Quite floral. Herradura is more a bronze hue with some spice characters. Again, I mentioned 'enticing' in my notes and it does have much more of interest than the blanco tequilas. Don Julio is pale and mellow with fresh floral notes and a hint of spice.

The prized Añejo category saw the Don Julio upping the complexity with spice and citrus. One for sipping solo or with a little ice. Trago offered an earthy truffly hint which was pleasing, a touch of florals and more length than it did with the Reposado. Patron (a recent duty free purchase) was quite yellow with pungent notes of flowers and spice. Good length. Finally, the Herrudura was first class, fragrant with complexity and more elegance than one expects in tequila.

[JasonInChiTown]

this was the article - it should be noted that it was for the trade, not consumers. and i even managed a plug for this place.

NLN - Tequila

Hands up those among us whose first reaction, when tequila is mentioned, to think worms, Eagles' songs, embarrassing late nights licking, sipping and sucking and suffering massively for it next day, and even a bad pun or two (tequila mockingbird?). Until recently, mine would be first raised. Go back a few years and tequila was code for the worst form of alcoholic self abuse. What we saw here was harsh, unpleasant, seemingly raw and without any redeeming features whatsoever. You drank tequila for one reason only and it was not a pretty one, though for a good many, this seems to apply today as much as ever. Just as the world has worked out that if one delves into most categories of spirits, there will be the good and bad, or perhaps that should run from the exceptional to the diabolical, it has come to understand that the same applies to tequila. It should come as no surprise.

Reasons for the transformation that has seen it become the fastest growing category in the States and well ahead of competitors (to the extent that more tequila is drunk in the USA than in Mexico these days), include the support of leading bartenders, always crucial. This would not have come about if the producers had not made a concerted effort to identify their spirit as more than the binge drinkers' favourite friend and to re-position it as an ultra-premium, sophisticated drink, an alternative to the top whiskeys, gins, vodkas, cognacs and rums. The improvement in packaging has played a vital role here.

There is also a rather nebulous link to sauvignon blanc. How so? Just as savvy has exploded in recent years on the back of the 'ABC' movement – anything but chardonnay – so too, has tequila benefited from what they are calling in the USA, the 'ABV' push – anything but vodka. The thrill of the new and the challenge that brings, a point of difference and closely aligning tequila with lifestyle have all helped. There is every indication that the push for quality tequila is only in the infant stage and that we will be seeing much more of it in the next few years. Producers are looking to further improve packaging and release more and more top shelf tequilas on to the market. Australia is pretty much a blank slate for them to work with. We will see more from not only the multi-nationals but expect to see smaller, family-based operations with quality tequila brought here by enterprising distributors. Expect the bigger drinks conglomerates to strengthen their tequila portfolios and for existing large producers to release new tequilas targeting the premium sector. Brown Forman paid US$776m for the Herradura brand while analysts believe that Pernod Ricard are highly likely to make a play for Patron, though this may not happen for several years.

To see the category continue to expand will require close attention from the producers, visits by makers (such as the recent trip down under by Ruben Aceves of Casa Herradura, who performed a series of masterclasses and dinners designed to improve consumer knowledge of tequila), and by local reps, apparently better known as brand ambassadors these days. Awareness of the spirit itself and how to drink it is very low here.

Behind the USA and Mexico, the next best markets for tequila are, in descending order, Germany, South Africa and Canada. On a percentage basis, tequila has outstripped the growth in any other spirit over the last ten years (1997 to 2007), though we must acknowledge that this is somewhat distorted by the fact that tequila comes from a smaller base. Euromonitor International notes tequila's increase as 45% (an increase of 68 million litres to a total of 219 million); rum performed next best with a 42% increase (which translates to an improvement of 355 million litres to 1,193 million); and third was whiskey with 34% (up 544 million litres to 2,133 million).

Patron has proved enormously successful, with top end sales tripling in just a few years. It has been described as the second most successful launch of a drinks product in recent years, behind only Grey Goose Vodka.

The views of James France from Vanguard Luxury Brands, which represent Trago Tequila, confirms tequila's new direction. “Tequila remains the bartender’s pet tipple. Thanks to the endorsement of leading bartenders, we are seeing consumers begin to appreciate high quality tequilas and we are overcoming much of the stigma that tequila has suffered for many years in this country. An example of the increased knowledge levels in regards to tequila is that the first question I am asked when presenting Trago to my customers is whether or not it is a highland tequila. (Trago is a highland tequila, affording it a sweetness derived from the red volcanic soil in which the blue agaves grow.) There has been a great deal of interest in Trago tequila which only just became available in this market in late July. People are drawn to its amazing packaging and are well-rewarded when they taste the award-winning tequila inside the bottle. I see a very positive future for premium and super-premium tequilas as the quality continues to improve and education about how it is made and how best to enjoy it filters through the wider population. However, even though we have come a long way in this regard over the last 5 or so years, there is still a long way to go. I stand by my mantra of 'good tequila is not an oxymoron!'”

Casa Herradura brought the first tequila expert to Australia. Aceves was born in the heart of blue agave territory and is on a mission to “help consumers clear out all the misconceptions and educate the world about the history, heritage, Mexican authenticity, flavour profile and mixability of tequila.” Herradura, which means horseshoe in Spanish, is made from 100% blue agave, as are all serious tequilas. Herradura Silver, a white Tequila, is aged in oak barrels for 40 days. Herradura Reposado or ‘rested’ tequila is aged for 11 months, five times the norm, in white oak barrels, while Herradura Ańejo doubles the norm by aging for two years in white oak barrels. Selección Suprema is aged for over four years but at a recommended price of $500 a bottle, it will be interesting to see if there are many takers. Don Julio, an ultra-premium tequila from the Los Altos region and one which, along with Patron and Cuervo's top tequilas, is considered to have been at the forefront of the explosion of interest in tequila in the USA, is also making a push into Australia. Currently available on premise, it will be also be made available off premise within six months. Another tequila at the ultra-premium end of the market, Partida, will also soon be available here.

An aside. Just what is tequila? First, what it is not. It is not made from a cactus but rather the blue agave, a plant that grows wild throughout Mexico. It is a later incarnation of fermented pulque from that plant and plays a major role in the mythology of that country. It even had its own god, Tetzcatzoncatl, who had an entourage of 400 intoxicated rabbits. When distillation arrived with the Spanish conquistadors, tequila and mezcal took over. Hence, tequila is a distillate of the blue agave, which is in fact a type of desert lily. There are some 200 strains of agave plants and this one, the blue, must grow in one of five designated regions, for the result to be 'tequila'. It takes almost a decade to reach maturity. The heart of these plants is starch, which when distilled, will give around 2 ½ litres of tequila. The closely related mezcal can be made from a range of different agave plants and does not have the same regional restrictions. It is aid that technically, tequila is simply an upmarket form of mezcal. Mezcal is often sweetened or flavoured. Here is where one finds the worm. The gusano worm, which lives in the agave, is found in many brands of mezcal. There are many supposed reasons as to why a worm is added but in reality, it is little more than a marketing gimmick but one that has probably hindered the drink's, and tequila's by association, reputation.

Blanco (White)/Silver and Gold tequilas tend to cater for the commercial market and it is with the Reposado and Añejo tequilas that the flight to quality is taking place. The tequila known as Blanco is that which is fresh from the still. It should have the flavour of the blue agave and is traditionally enjoyed in a caballito, a small two-oz glass. This is considered to be the first of the tequilas.

Reposado is a rested white tequila that has been kept in white oak casks or vats called "pipones" for between two months and one year. Time in oak confers a mellow taste, a pale colour and should offer a more gentle experience. When blanco tequila is aged in white oak casks, which do not exceed 600 litres, for more than a year, an amber colour and woody flavour develop, and we have Añejo. It is rare to find a tequila aged for more than a few years but some producers are experimenting with it.

Where better to get unbiased info on what is hot in the tequila market than from the States themselves? My favourite Cuban cigar forum (www.friendsofhabanos.com) discusses everything from fishing to drinks, as well as cigars. Many members are based in the USA and they happily launched into the topic of top tequilas and were as passionate about their favourites, and often dismissive of those that were not, as one could wish. Many are not available in Australia but the most popular were, in no particular order, Arrette Gran Clase Añejo, Corzo Añejo, Cabo Wabo, La Certeza Blanco, Trago, Sauza Hornitos (Reposado), Los Azulajos Reposado, Cazadores, Don Julio Reposado, Cuervo Reserva de la Familia, Herradura Reposado, Patron Añejo, 1800 Silver Select and Espolon Añejo.

A tasting of some of the tequilas available here – in the Blanco class, the Don Julio was fresh, floral and classy. Trago Silver had a noticeable pungency with soft spice and floral notes. Herradura Silver was interesting with a pale yellowy green colour, a mustard seed note and some enticing rustic earthy truffly notes. Moving to the Reposados, Olmeca is a mid length style with pleasant citrus and orange notes. Trago, which does have fabulous packaging, was yellow with upfront flavours, very aromatic and mellow. Quite floral. Herradura is more a bronze hue with some spice characters. Again, I mentioned 'enticing' in my notes and it does have much more of interest than the blanco tequilas. Don Julio is pale and mellow with fresh floral notes and a hint of spice.

The prized Añejo category saw the Don Julio upping the complexity with spice and citrus. One for sipping solo or with a little ice. Trago offered an earthy truffly hint which was pleasing, a touch of florals and more length than it did with the Reposado. Patron (a recent duty free purchase) was quite yellow with pungent notes of flowers and spice. Good length. Finally, the Herrudura was first class, fragrant with complexity and more elegance than one expects in tequila.

Thank you for posting the article, Ken. Tequila is an absolutely polarizing spirit and I don't think it's really an 'acquired taste' either. From day one I've enjoyed agave on my palate.

Sidebar - Don Julio Blanco with fresh grapefruit juice is an amazing and refreshing drink

[SnakeHips]

please don't misunderstand. i did the tasting/article because i was interested to find out more - i found out they are not for me, young or old. obviously there are many many fans, whether as cocktails or not - the sector is way too big for there not to be.

tasted my way through pretty much everything from young to old etc of don julio, patron, trago, herradura and a few others i think. will dig out the article if i can find it and post it and love to hear from tequlia fans what i got wrong. i also have a feeling we had a post on tequlia some time ago and there were lots of recommendations.

and for fans of the stuff, if you are visiting oz, please come by and help me get rid of some of it. all the leftover bottles are sitting in the bottom of the cupboard.

If they're not for you, they're not for you; tequila really is love it or hate it. I was just emphasizing the "opposite" age effect/premise of tequila vs. other spirits, as you'd implied a flaw in the short aging times of premium tequilas vs. premium spirits of other kinds.