I just came back from Cayo Largo and it was OK. Plenty of food and drinks. Big invasion of mosquitos though, apparently never been seen such, but beside that it was awesome experience.
Cigars wise, my jaw dropped when I saw fake Cohibas at the Cienfuegos Airport. Not sure how they got there, but to buy them you have to use your credit card, so I assume it's the government's money. Esplendidos around 650$/ 25. And Ay Cayo Largo del Sur airport the worst fakes ever with Cohiba Robustos for 7$/ cigar. At the Hotel's store there were fake Robustos 25$.
Everywhere, to get them you have to use your CC.