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  • 1 year later...
Posted

Thanks for the great write up! I’m heading there in April/May and can’t wait!

  • Like 1
Posted
19 hours ago, HenryMartin said:

Dear FOH

Having returned from a two week trip from Japan, perhaps my experiences in navigating its cigar landscape could be of useful insight. For the less familiar, Japan with its rich cultural heritage and established infrastructure has tremendously attracted tourism and perhaps too much so of late. 

It has for a decade or so employed a smoke-free outdoor policy that fits well for family visitors. It does however, employ a unique indoor smoking policy at the same time that bodes well for aficionados. So although outdoor smoking is deemed unlawful, there are plenty of places to light a cigar in bars and lounges by discretion, exclusively catered for adults. As for ventilation, unfortunately aficionados must bare the exposure of cigarette smoke in most if not all bars. But some cigar oriented lounges may save them from such hazards. This part is certainly a hit-and-miss that comes with exploring the cigar landscape of Japan.

Before getting into it, it should be noted that I did not visit any of the hotel lounges or shops. I do know they exist but my last visit to those was a decade ago and I prefer to share current insights to keep this thread up-to-date. Perhaps another FOH would be so kind to share this part of the landscape.

I visited Tokyo, Osaka and Nagoya.

One observation I had witnessed was that the Japanese interest in rum is apparent throughout the three cities. I say this because all cigar bars I visited stock a robust rum selection, some occupied by more rum connoisseurs than cigar aficionados as clientele. Its almost as if its the allure of Caribbean spirits that piques the Japanese appetite and synonymous with the rum are fortunately for us, the cigars.

Osaka is known to be the exuberant side of the Japanese persona. Dotonbori represents the heart of the city, proud of its boldly flavoursome takoyaki and okonomiyaki. This backdrop is the home of Edmundo Dantes, a cigar spot praised by FOH. 

Tucked away in an inconspicuous location, it was a spot so lively that it was fully occupied at the time of my visit. As aforementioned, host was friendly and welcoming, yet he apologises for the lack of space and advised me to come back in one hour. I did inquire for a cigar takeway but this was not possible. Although I was grateful for his offer, I felt the scene was somewhat overwhelming and so decided to venture further. Fortunately I had found another spot called the Cigar Nest.

Conveniently located on the Western side of Dotonbori it is a cozy cigar spot with a unique twist. You come in and take a seat to order a drink of your choice and the host then comes to you with a selection of cigars as pairing. I ordered a delicately crafted hot chocolate and was given a selection of new world cigars, in this occasion I had opted for the Davidoff Anniversario. 

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It is a small place that only fits more or less 10 customers but the cozy spot made for an intimate experience so much so that I had earned a new friend, which in this era is always a privilege. The only real downside of Osaka is that with all its extravagance, I failed to find one decent cigar shop.

Nagoya is a city in between Tokyo and Osaka, a metropolitan city home to automobile giant Toyota. I visited two cigar spots in the vibrant section of the city that is Sakae. The first is Bar Climb Up. Also a bar stacked with rum, I was welcomed by the host and decided to order Japanese craft beer called Gargery. My only complaint in the world of craft beer is quality control, so often do we get great tasting produce but end up with a questionable indication of alcohol content. Anyway, given a cigar list in Japanese script that I could not comprehend, I had asked to view their humidor which the host politely asked not to open. Fortunately it was a glass top.

The humidor had a modest selection in stock that included a tempting HDM Epicure Especial. But I had one recently in London’s Cavendish No. 6, so I decided to take another Davidoff instead. This time the Grand Cru to see if I could observe for comparisons.

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Bar Climb Up is ideal for anyone seeking a cigar spot in Nagoya, especially considering how well the host speaks English. I feel fortunate that just one block away, is another spot housing perhaps the more renowned cigar bar called Cigarillo. 

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I entered Cigarillo in another occasion and was greeted by the host, who proceeded to offer me a menu of both drinks and cigars in Japanese. I asked for a beer and was offered a selection of which I had decided again to go local. He then invited me to view his humidor that was considerably larger than its colleague down the street. With a much more diverse selection, I opted for a Siglo I given the time constraints of the evening.

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I am happy to report that both Osaka and Nagoya is not short of cigar spots to harbour aficionados, especially from the elements of January’s winter. Yes ventilation could be better in all such locations but in most cases, it is a cozy environment when not at full occupancy.

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The best part about Nagoya however, is a cigar shop that I regard as a gem. Smoke and Liquor at Hirokoji-dori. I picked up a few Habanos that are relatively rare at my home city, including Quai D’Orsay and Juan Lopez. 

Tokyo is fantastic place that can easily overwhelm. The city itself is evidently big enough to divide itself further into separate cities within. One of the cigar destinations I visited was Chardonnay.

Chardonnay certainly has an air of members-club to it and although that's not necessarily a bad thing, it can create a daunting experience for someone who just wants to kick back with a cigar. It is located in Omotesando, an affluent area frequented by shopping tourists. Its front door is accessible via the highstreet, located one floor down.

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Before I open the door, I am already welcomed by a signage indicating codes of conduct. The conditions as it were for my entry towards the esteemed establishment. Amongst several, this included no outside cigars nor groups of too many people and to my bewilderment, the host proceeded to hand me the identical signage I had already studied immediately upon my entry into the premises. Upon my verbal agreement to conditions set forth, I was told that it was last order at 22:00 and since it was 21:30, I had a short window. Again I persevered and was handed a menu of both drinks and cigars in English. I ordered a local beer and browsed their cigar collection to find myself impressed. It was the Habanos Anejados collection in particular that I was keen to try for the first time. They had four kinds and I chose the HDM Hermosos Anejados.

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It was a magnificent cigar, one of those moments reminiscent of Habanos at its finest. I inquired for a takeaway and was handed a list of appealing cigars but one that didn’t include any Anejados. Chardonnay is a big place, especially in Japanese standards. It has a high ceiling and the ventilation was so effective it saved my entire attire from even the slightest after scent. I was not too keen on the playlist of 1950s music but to each his own. The bar snack of wasabi crackers however, was truly delightful. 

Another spot I visited was El Bar. Although not a cigar bar per se as they don’t sell any, its a strategically positioned cigar spot in Ginza. While sat there accompanied by another local brew, I lit the cigar I had packed for this trip which was a Ramon Allones SCC. The host furnished a cigar ashtray and offered cutter and torch, so its certainly an ideal cigar-friendly alternative in the area of Ginza and in particular, Hatchobori.

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The last place I visited was another spot mentioned in this thread, the renowned Le Connoisseur in the heart of Ginza. 

In terms of comfort, this place is second to none. The furnishing, design, cleanliness, ventilation and vibe meets the expectations of its prestigious address. Fortunately the place is very approachable, the host welcomed me inside and encouraged me to enter their walk-in humidor unattended. The only rule is a fixed service charge for on-premise, more like a door charge as it is not applied to takeaways. 

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Their collection is fair but I get a sense that it’s oriented towards on-premise. I say this because here at La Connoisseur aficionados pay for the experience and I can understand why. If I were with friends dressed for an evening of fine cigars and drinks, for sure this would be the destination in Tokyo. I did wish that I was there with friends, unfortunately that wasn’t the case and it was my last session in Tokyo so I ordered another local beer and closed the visit with another Davidoff, only this time a Signature. One that pleasantly became the best one out of the three.

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It is the first time that I have written anything this long on FOH and I sincerely hope that doing so I didn’t breach any forum rules in the process. I don’t get to use much English in my profession and perhaps am guilty of using this platform as means for practice. In case I have breached in any way, my apologies as I am still testing the ropes as a newbie.

I thoroughly enjoyed my trip to Japan and was pleased to find a vibrant cigar domain. It took a bit of time to understand their cigar ethos but that is true for most things in Japan. Although I plan to explore further for my next visit, if there would be only one spot that I could visit again and one spot only, it must be the Chardonnay.

Great review. Thanks for the write up. Great job. 

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