Fat Duck, Heston Blumenthal Melbourne

[Bill Hayes]

I was lucky enough to get a late call up in the ballot for Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck restaurant that is in Melbourne for six months at Crown Casino. Probably because it was Friday 13^th and I made myself available for just a table for two at any time for lunch or dinner within short notice that I got the nod when a reservation cancelled. I went with the missus, battling a severe thunderstorm that halted plans for a casual 15 minute tram ride into a frenzy of calling taxi cabs. But we arrived early enough to grab a quick calming drink beforehand in the Casino to wash away the stresses of the week.

We were lucky enough to get a table by the window overlooking the Yarra towards the Aquarium. At first I found the feel of the space a little slapped together but the focus was most definitely on the food and the theatre of the presentation.

There were 16 courses, varying in size from a single bite to a small plate, with some utilising dry ice. For me, there was only one dish that didn’t appeal and that was the salmon poached in liquorice gel. But all the other courses I thoroughly enjoyed. The pick of them for me was the Jelly of Quail, Marron Cream with Caviar Sorbet, Oak Moss and Truffle toast. That one really blew me away. Other highlights were the Sounds of the Sea, the roast marron, the salmon twister popsicle and the Duck Liver Parfait popsicle, the lamb and the whiskey wine gums that referenced different Scotch Whiskies and a Tasmanian Whisky. I think Heston did a great job in incorporating Australian ingredients and themes into the menu and there was a good selection of Australian wines as well.

I didn’t want to get too drunk to enjoy the food so I didn’t choose the wine match but in the end, of course, probably was just on the edge of having too much. We chose a glass of sparkling to start, the missus with a Billycart and myself with a sparkling shiraz. Mine wasn’t the right choice to start because the food came out half way through the glass. I probably would have been better with a glass of Riesling. No problem, we ordered a bottle of Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay – Ten minutes by tractor Wallis which was a very nice match to the early dishes. I then chose a glass of Pinot Noir from Bannockburn in Victoria which was great with the lamb. Then a small 275ml bottle of Sauternes which did the job. But, Hey, who can fork out $1700 for a bottle d’Yquem? Not us, that’s for sure. The whisky wine gums got me inspired so I finished with a dram of Sullivan’s Cove Tasmanian Whisky which was probably just a little too much.

The service was reasonably theatrical but restrained when it had to be. A mix of Australian wait staff and Heston’s crew made for some clumsy moments but I’m sure they’ll iron out those very minor hiccups.

All in all it was probably my best fine dining experience. I would recommend it to anyone. It’s expensive but it’s a dinner and a show for the one price.

The only disappointment and this is just a little bug bear of mine. Although I was focused on my experience I couldn’t help but take a peak about the room. There were a few tables of people taking selfies and photos of their food, even after Heston went on TV saying that that kind of thing wasn’t really welcome in his restaurant and he’d prefer people to enjoy the meal and not worry about posting photos etc. I’ve been guilty of it before but never in a fine dining situation and usually with a bit of humour thrown in during an appropriate moment. So I just blanked out the other diners and focussed on my experience.

Would I go again? Most probably if someone else was paying but if the missus gets selected in the ballot as I did then I would suggest that she take someone else who is dying to go.

As an overall experience it was great with some standout dishes but my favourite dish that I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy is still Joel Rubechon’s foie gras matched with Sauternes.

Hope this gives those interested a feel for what this restaurant has to offer. Cheers.

[Ken Gargett]

good post.

the yquem? might depend on the vintage (and who was paying!).

personally, i think the wallis vineyard in mornington peninsula is one of the great sites for aussie chardy.

must confess, i'dd have taken photos of the food - for myself, not to post. if you are paying that sort of dosh, i'd not have a problem.

[Bill Hayes]

Ken, the 2004 is $1700 on their wine list. I'd love to try it one day. Here's a link to the list - http://www.thefatduckmelbourne.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Melbournewinelist.pdf

I guess I just felt a touch intimidated to pull out the phone. But we were last to leave and the staff showed us the kitchen and we took one happy snap by the 6 month clock on the wall of the room, taken by the friendly waitress. Great experience that made me wish I knew a lot more about wine but I was really happy with the Chardonnay I chose thanks to a post in wine section of the forum that listed a top 50 of Aussie wine. I have had lunch at ten minutes by tractor before and remembered how much I like the Chardonnay.

[Ken Gargett]

Ken, the 2004 is $1700 on their wine list. I'd love to try it one day. Here's a link to the list - http://www.thefatduckmelbourne.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Melbournewinelist.pdf

I guess I just felt a touch intimidated to pull out the phone. But we were last to leave and the staff showed us the kitchen and we took one happy snap by the 6 month clock on the wall of the room, taken by the friendly waitress. Great experience that made me wish I knew a lot more about wine but I was really happy with the Chardonnay I chose thanks to a post in wine section of the forum that listed a top 50 of Aussie wine. I have had lunch at ten minutes by tractor before and remembered how much I like the Chardonnay.

ta bill. will go through the list when i have a chance. am one of the (many) judges for the annual aussie wine list comp so i would imagine it might appear there.

good decision not to pay that for the 04. plenty of far better vintages.