Wildlife on Fraser Island

[Ken Gargett]

Driving back from the Cape earlier today, we see one of the many sea eagles that live on Fraser Island, swoop alongside us just in the back of the waves. There are quite a few of them around and they'll often feast on fish skeletons that some of the less-environmentally concerned fishermen (we have banned the term, fisher-person) have left on the beach.

This eagle, quite a large bird even for this species, emerges with something in its talons. It flies across in front of the car and we suddenly realise that it has picked up a five-foot sea snake. Hands up all those who will be sure to wear their waders in the surf tomorrow. It flew alongside us for a while (I desperately tried to get a photo but the camera was packed away and I just missed). One of the most spectacular sights I’ve ever seen. Just WOW!!

This is a special island. I’ll tell the story of the fishing – not so good this trip so far but that rarely matters – some other time (and also, cigars – smoke more up here than anywhere else bar Havana itself), but just to give you an idea of the David Attenborough-ish place this is, we catch the ferry across from Rainbow Beach. I’ve never seen dugongs there but others have. The drive up the beach, and then behind Indian Head, Middle Rocks and Waddy Point, to the Lodge, is about 100 kms or so. Some parts can be very tough and many, many vehicles get bogged but the beach section is bliss, provided you manage your tides. On the way, every chance of fish, eagles, all manner of sea birds, dingo's and more.

First morning this trip, Ted and I (there were ten on this trip – some of the guys like to sleep in, some won't fish on rocks etc etc), went to one of our fave possies on the rocks just on the south edge of Waddy Headland. No fish but we had dolphins swimming back and forth. Just wonderful. Water was crystal, not a breath of wind (that was to change), a perfect day. One dolphin flopped about around twenty feet from us – so absolutely fat chance of any self-respecting fish in the vicinity. Suddenly a large manta ray burst from the ocean, being chased by something that saw it as a juicy breakfast. The poor thing fled in terror but we didn't see the end result. I suspect it didn't go well for the ray. Next thing, there is a massive bait-ball about 100 metres offshore and a pack of tuna hit it. For the next 2 – 3 minutes, they made raid after raid, tearing into it. Oh, to be in Gav's boat with a fly rod! Shortly after, another ray went sailing through the air though this time, it seemed more for fun.

That arvo, we fished inside Waddy on the north side. A few good fish around (one bloke picked up a biog kingfish from the beach – never heard of that before) but as they are concentrated here, it becomes a scrum and not so pleasant. Right on dusk, another family of dolphins went for a surf, right in front of us, leaping out of the water and riding the waves. They are so much fun to watch and so clever. Less fun when someone in the scrum yells out that he has just seen a whopping great Noah (shark for those not familiar with the lingo) about 20 metres from the line of us, waist deep in the surf all carrying fish bags over our shoulders dripping fish blood.

Next morning, same spot but what was amazing was the show the whales put on. Considering we were on the beach and with no elevation, it gives you an idea how close they were (they often come into the bay on the north of Waddy) when I say we could enjoy everything. For quite some time, this family leapt and leapt high into the air, smashing down. No idea what the Whale Watching Boats charge for a trip but no way could they provide a spectacle like this.

Today, a young and quite thin dingo is poking around the Lodge. Have not seen one so close for years. Seems wary but not afraid. We shoo them off as if they get too confident, the rangers will shoot them. Have not seen any goannas as yet this trip. Normally a few hanging around Was a big three legged brute – he could still climb trees without a problem – that was here but have not seen him for a few years.

Then to the Cape. We fished a great horseshoe shaped spot, though I reckon we were too early in the tide for the thing to work, but what was amazing was the couple of green turtles popping up here and there near us and the heap of big rays swimming back and forth. Tried to get one to take a pillie – they do sometimes and put up a very long tough fight – but not today. As we were stirring up the sands near where the surf was rushing over into the 'bay', they were over to see what we stirred up food-wise. So at one stage, I’m banging my feet trying to drive off about 12 big rays. All I can thing is, 'I’m not Steve Irwin, I’m not Steve Irwin'.

But of course, when it comers to wildlife on Fraser, nothing beats the Swedish backpackers.

ps – needless to say, the goanna turned up just after i finished this.

KBG