There last summer for the first time. Excellent food at Papiamento, Amazonia Churascaria, and Taste of Belgium. If you're into Belgian beers, definitely hit up Taste of Belgium. As for the smokes, a cigar shop in the Rennaisance Mall is a must on Friday evening. 2 for 1 cigar happy hour from 5 to 6 pm. I believe the name is Cigar Emporium. The Friday I was there they had belicosos buy 1 get 1 free. I was able to snag BBFs, Upmann 2s, and Sancho Belis for around $7 - $9 per stick at the discounted price. Normal prices are a tad on the high side.
Staying in a beach area or inland?