whisky/whiskey tasting

Ken Gargett · June 13, 2009

thought the whisky fans among us might be interested in this. it is from the decanter wine mag site (decanter is a pommy mag that is one of the best wine mags in the world).

after recent postings, the comments on the japanese whiskies is interesting.

and if that ardberg is twice as peaty as usual, it must be almost like sticking your head in the peat bogs themselves.

prices and locations obviously english.

The image of whisky -on the surface at least - may be rather staid and traditional, but producers are experimenting like never before, maturing their whiskies in different barrels and casks to achieve new flavours and styles. Don't worry if you don't know your cask-strengths from your non-chill-filtereds; it is reassuring that the overall standard of whisky these days is very high. As a general rule, Speyside whiskies are clean and pure; Highland whiskies tend to be fuller and spicier; and those from Islay peaty and smoky. Irish whiskies are softer, and bourbons sweeter. And I would urge you to give Japanese whiskies a try. They are not easy to find, but are comparable in quality to the best Scotch. Many of these whiskies can be found at Royal Mile Whiskies (www.royalmilewhiskies.com) The Whisky Exchange (www.thewhiskyexchange.com) and Milroy’s of Soho (www.milroys.co.uk)

Talisker NV

Talisker, from the Isle of Skye, is the ideal choice for those who like their whiskies wild and untamed. The 18 Year Old lacks the peppery clout of its little brother, the 10 Year Old (£30), but more than makes up for it with waves of smoke, honey and spice. Controlled power at its finest. (45.8%)

about £45–£50 Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300) and other whisky specialists

WL Weller 12 Year Old Bourbon NV

All the trademark bourbon flavours are here - toffee, corn and cream - but where Weller 12 Year Old wins out is the minty freshness, particularly on the nose, making for a well-balanced (and keenly priced) whiskey. (45% abv)

£32.99 www.thewhiskyexchange.com

Ardberg Supernova NV

Ardbeg is already known for being the peatiest of all Islay malts, but Supernova is the distillery's peatiest yet. Peat in whisky is measured in ppms (parts per million), with Supernova topping the 100 mark, double Ardbeg's usual amount. This whisky has to be cut with water when tasting, but what a taste! Bonfires, tar, barley, smoked fish - not subtle, but a real explosion of flavours in the mouth. Not for the nervous. (58.9% abv)

£79.99 Oddbins branches (0800 917 4093) and other whisky specialists

Highland Park 25 Year Old NV

Until recently, the most northern distillery in Scotland. Highland Park's signature style is big and enveloping, but with a balancing sweetness. The 25 Year Old is the pick of the range, with a peaty, salty nose that offers smoke and toffee. Hints of honey and citrus on the palate, but the peat is never far away. Less obvious than the 18 Year Old (£60), but all the better for it - this is a tremendous whisky, and not unlike an overenthusiastic hug from an old friend. (48.1«v)

£130 Whisky specialists

Glenmorangie Astar NV

Glenmorangie (pronounced GlenMORangie not GlenmorANGie) is based in the heart of Scotch whisky country, in Speyside, north-west of Aberdeen. Astar has an elegant, rich, classical nose, with a hint of eucalyptus. Clean, fresh and fruity, this is subtle stuff indeed, but bottled at a cask-strength 57.1% - a silent assassin. (57.1% abv)

£50.50-59.95 Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300) and other whisky specialists

Jameson Gold Reserve NV

Irish whiskies are distilled three times, not twice as in most Scottish whiskies, giving them a softer, rounder flavour. This effort from Jameson is a perfect example: oranges, honey and burnt sugar on the nose (thanks to maturation in a Sherry butt), with a beautiful silky texture. But don%u2019t be fooled by the softness: this is one characterful whisky, with sensuous notes of oranges and crème caramel. (40% abv)

£48–£54.99 Whisky specialists

Hibiki 17 Year Old NV

Japanese whiskies are still relatively rare in the UK, so pounce on any you find. Hibiki (meaning 'harmony') is from Japanese giant Suntory, and is a blend of more than 30 whiskies. Quite a delicate and engaging nose of candied peel and leather, with dried oranges and toasty oak on the palate, but the beautifully soft, creamy texture - like so many whiskies from Japan - is the star here. (43% abv)

£59.49 Whisky specialists

Auchentoshan 18 Year Old NV

A triple-distilled single malt from the Lowlands region of Scotland, the Auchentoshan style is restrained, with delicate, almost grassy flavours. The 18 Year Old is a class act, striking a balance between fresh citrus and malty biscuit notes. (43% abv.) The 12 Year Old (£25) is a very safe bet, too.

£48.99-55.99 Whisky specialists

Johnnie Walker Black Label NV

Johnnie Walker is probably the most famous whisky brand in the world, and sells bucketloads in the Far East. The Black Label has more depth than the cheaper Red Label, with an alluringly spicy nose of dried fruit. On the palate, you find powerful spice and plenty of oak. A touch of water can't tame its take-no-prisoners style. A good counterpoint to the Compass Box above, and further proof that blends shouldn't be dismissed. (40% abv)

£21-24 widely available

Compass Box Asyla NV

If ever a whisky was designed to convert non-whisky drinkers, it's this one. Made by John Glaser, formerly of Johnnie Walker, Asyla is a blended whisky, and immediately disproves the notion that blends are innately inferior to single malts. A fresh, citrussy, appley nose that transforms into an incredibly clean, soft palate of bitter oranges, this is very easy-drinking. (40% abv)

£27 Whisky specialists and independents