Fidel Castro: A man in hiding with a powerful grip

[Jimmy2]

McClatchy Newspapers

January 02, 2009

SANTIAGO DE CUBA -- Although Raul Castro, the Cuban President, was the man marking the 50th anniversary of the island's revolution with a 40-minute speech, most of the 1½-hour program served as an homage to his brother Fidel, whose health is a state secret and has not been seen in public since major intestinal surgery 2½ years ago.

But the 82-year-old former president continues to make his views known. He writes occasional essays known as "Reflections," which are carried prominenly in the government-controlled media.

He also remains as the head of the Communist Party, which the Cuban constitution designates as the nation's supreme leader. His latest offering -- a one-sentence salutation -- was published Thursday in Granma, the party newspaper, in which he congratulated "our heroic people."

The official celebration in Santiago kicked off with historical footage of battle scenes and was laced with the voice of a young Fidel Castro delivering long, passionate speeches in the early years of the revolution.

The homage was complemented with music, dance and a series of declarations, punctuated by chants of "Viva Fidel, Viva la revolucion, Viva Cuba libre!"

"Resistance has been the order of the day and the key to our victory," Raul Castro told the crowd, which was limited to invited guests.

The elaborate gathering shown live on Cuban television was a stark contrast to a tense calm that hung over the host city earlier in the day, perhaps because shortly after the New Year began, authorities banned Cubans from one of the city's busiest square.

The mood picked up in the late afternoon when streams of credentialed guests gathered at Parque Cespedes chanted in unison during the orderly affair. But once the crowd petered out to celebrate at home, heavy security did not permit ordinary people to enter the plaza in anticipation of the evening ceremonies to mark the anniversary.

Most Cubans had to hear what Raul Castro had to say on television and privately many were unenthused.

"Nobody is out today because nobody wants to talk," said Orlando, a gypsy cab driver.

"There's a fog over the whole city. They government officials are celebrating while the people are screwed."

"They are celebrating this anniversary themselves, just like they chose a president for this country among themselves," added Daly, a mother of two."

It was 50 years ago that rebels came down from the mountains to oust a dictator, only to institute one themselves. The revolution was welcomed with enthusiastic praise, particularly in the countryside here, where deeply entrenched poverty left many in squalor. Even Cuba's middle class welcomed that Jan. 1 day when Fidel took to the town-hall balcony on Parque Cespedes and promised to restore order to a war-torn nation.

But the decades of economic ruin and restricted freedoms have taken their toll.

Most people in Santiago respond with a polite smile when asked about the latest celebrations. Some tout the important accomplishments such as health care and education for all, but many others point their heads at the cop on every corner, an indication of a conversation that will not take place.

"They set up those chairs in the plaza for who? -- the high command," said Eduardo, a teacher.

"Because they know no one will be out celebrating 50 years of the same, 50 years of going backward instead of forward. This has been the reverse revolution."

Eduardo acknowledged that Santiago, an eastern city that served as the nation's first capital, has traditionally backed the Cuban government. Many Afro-Cuban residents, particularly the elderly who suffered discrimination, applaud the Castro brothers for opening up educational and professional opportunities to people of all races and socioeconomic classes.

"I am sure that even now there are more Santiagueros who support the revolution than in any other part of the country," Eduardo said.

"But even the older people and the black people know ... they know what this has been and they have suffered because of it."

Cubans deeply resent strict controls, which prevent them from legally supplementing woeful salaries that average US$20 a month. They say the government has cracked down harder on black market business they need to survive.

Life got even harder this summer after a series of devastating storms ruined many people's homes and livelihoods.

"They are organizing this big celebration for those who can celebrate," said Yolys, a teacher.

"I bought a new dress for New Year's Eve but that means not having money to buy rum."

"For most of us, it's like that. We'd rather be celebrating a different system, one where I could speak freely and buy the clothes I like, not just the ones I can afford."

As the woman looked at herself in the mirror at a nightclub washroom and adjusted her tight jeans and tank top, she stared at her image for a few moments.

"Look older than 32, don't I? I look at least 40," she said.

"It is the life here. That's why I go out to places like this hoping to find a foreigner to fall in love with me. Don't get me wrong, I would not marry a fat disgusting guy. I want a nice one, one who can offer me a better life."