Tamarindo, Costa Rica. Cacique to Friendly Cartels: A Beach Town Balancing Pura Vida & Pura Chaos

[LaoFan]

I bought my first spot @ Sunrise Condominiums in Tamarindo in 2017 and have been going once or twice a year since.

This place is heaven.

People don’t say ‘you’re welcome’ in Costa Rica. They say Pura Vida ~ Pure Life.

If a waiter brings you a beer, you say thanks, they respond Pura Vida.

Costa Ricans have their shit together. 

Everything is about Pura Vida. Being healthy, being happy, being friendly, enjoying nature, grabbing a cold one after a surf, eating fresh. 

Tamarindo (Guanacaste province) is on the Nicoya peninsula. It’s one of 5 Blue Zones where people live longer than anywhere else in the world.

Home to the best sunsets I’ve seen in my life.

There are spots (not too bad) overridden with hooligans. Locals have been calling it TamaGringo for a while.

It’s nowhere near the nicest beaches I’ve seen in my travels as the water can be a bit murky and the beach a bit pebbly (the main beach is right on an estuary - once a decade croc bites included), but it does the trick, and the waves are legendary.

Tiny country, massive biodiversity. Animals everywhere. Howler monkeys roaring and parrots flying by the deck as you enjoy a morning smoke and coffee.

You can do anything in Tamarindo. Nothings really off limits. The cops are ever present.. and watch tourists do it all. But god forbid you’re a local trying to make a few Colones selling unlicensed coconuts via kiosks next to the beach. 

 

Smoking:

I’d always brought my own smokes, but as I had been on the road for 2 months I thought I’d check around to see what’s available.

I was thrilled to see the Habanos website had a new spot located in Tamarindo. 

 

It is in the Auto Mercado mall – which is the fanciest shopping market in Tamarindo.. so I thought there was a chance.

It was a Habanos Point though so I didn’t get my hopes up...

Glad I didn’t:

Wtf... lol.

There are a few other ‘CRUZ CANELA & TRUST GB S.A.’ distributor ‘Habanos Points’ along the main streets that have been their always.. and I think* they’re legit, but:

TL;DR – Unless you’re a lover of overpriced clubs / petits, or you’re an American who’s never heard of FOH… bring your own Cubans.

Decent local Costa Rican (and other blends) cigars that can be bought in their B&Ms in town:

• Natecas
• Don Enrique

Nobody smokes in Tamarindo although the youngins often vape. It’s a mostly no-smoke country, but as the pattern persists.. gringos can mostly do anything they want. Never had a problem smoking on the beach. Just don’t light up beside people and nobody seems to mind.

F&B:

You’re not going to experience a ton of local food unless you go out of your way, with 2 exceptions:

1. Gallo Pinto (spotted rooster) – breakfast rice, eggs, and black bean staple. Throw in veggies and the country wide famous Lizano sauce (delicious... not spicy though). Stack some avocados and serve with plantains/tortillas. Will give you the protein to get thru the day. Somehow they make rice and beans a lifestyle, not a side dish.
2. Guaro – 30% distilled from sugar cane. Cacique is the national brand. It goes down real easy and is the base for CR’s famous party shot: Chili Guaro. Amped up bloody mary (Caesar rules supreme - for my Canadian brothers & sisters). One Chili Guaro turns into three, and suddenly you’re agreeing to surf lessons from a guy with no board and a neck tattoo that says ‘Pura Vida.’”

Imperial Beer is a top 5 ‘National Beer’ for me. Setup a question for whos the best National Beer, but it was moved here.

Dining and bar options are plentiful.

My favourites:

Green Papaya. Guy who opened it was Israeli and sold it to an American. 

Fantastic burritos. Perfect sauce. House made spicy condiment that was 10/10.

Pico Bistro. Awesome lunch/sandwiches and fantastic cocktails.

Dragonfly Bar & Grill. Great fusion, good cocktails, lively without getting too rowdy.

Patagonia Argentinian Grill & Restaurant. As good as it gets for a steak in Tamarindo (maybe the whole of CR)

Bars, beachside dining for sunset, and nightlife are endless... 

Surfing: top of the tree. beginner to pro. Boards cost $10 for the day. Most pay $40. Just make friends with the guys.. more than willing to make a friend and a deal.

Safety: Zero concerns. Drugs are rampant, but not in a bad way (joints on the beach). If you’re under 60 (sorry gents) the beach guys who ‘sell’ bird whistles will whisper ‘weed. blow.’ everytime you pass. There’s a shooting every few years, but its always gang related and they know better than to mess with the gringos. I leave my phone and cash in a bag on the beach and leave it for hours. Never had a theft. Obviously ymmv and use caution as normal.

Money / Economy: 

Costa Rican Colones – the actual exchange rate is 508 colones per USD. Everybody will run with 500 to 1. All locally listed prices just double the first 2 digits and you got your dollar figure. Coins are basically useless, unless you want a bathing suit that jingles. While tipping (service fees) are built into any bill, leave ‘em behind, the local staff need ‘em more than you anyways.

They re-built the Liberia Airport in 2012 and have direct flights to 20~ Canadian/American cities.

It's on fire.

Other Cities in Costa Rica:

The Pacific Coast is the spot to be IMO. Limon (Carribbean side) is rasta land. San Jose & Jaco are interesting for a bachelor party.. but messy and more dangerous.

My update:

New property getting developed in Playa Negra (epic hollow right-hand barrels).

Quick cut... (popped out the salesy bit at the end - but thought some would like to see what it looks like)

Celebrating electricity/water getting put in with a Lusi.

Pro-Tips:

• Rent a golf cart. They’re not cheap, but they’re a blast to zoom around town with a smoke. Just sold the truck down there as it was too much of a nuisance to get around.
• See the turtles hatching at night.
• Spanish not required – most people within the town speak some English. If lost in a conversation, just nod and say Pura Vida.
• Sushi is everywhere. It isn't top class but the fish is all so fresh it doesn't matter.
• Only oysters in town is Wok N' Roll. 
• If you're trying to get rowdy it always starts at Sharky's.

Was there for a wedding this time:

[chasy]

Was down at Zapotal in December. It’s amazing. I’m bullish on Costa Rica.

[Lamboinee]

Great review.